1972 Chevrolet C10 Pickup RWD - Washer Pump
The windshield washer pump moves washer fluid from the reservoir through the hoses and nozzles to spray the windshield. The pump is activated by the windshield wiper switch on the side of the steering column. Some bigger vehicles like SUVs, vans, or wagons may also have a rear window washer pump. If the windshield washer spray is not working or weak, you may need a replacement windshield washer pump. It is a good idea to check the washer system for clogged nozzles, damaged hoses, or a leaking reservoir, as any of these issues can affect the spray. Activating the switch with the vehicle on but the engine not running may allow you to hear if the pump motor is working. If the pump motor is not running, a voltmeter can verify if it is receiving power. Some vehicles may also have a fuse for this part and should be checked. If the voltage is correct, the switch activated, but no fluid is spraying, you may need a replacement pump. O'Reilly Auto Parts carries windshield washer pumps for most vehicles.Show More Show Less
152698F - 1967-72 C10 Fesler Flush Mount Windshield and Back Glass Set - Green Tint
1967-72 C10 Fesler Flush Mount Windshield and Back Glass Set - Green Tint
Classic fit, flush mount glass for 1967-72 Chevrolet C-10 "Big Window" pickup trucks. Designed and manufactured in North America using the original Float Glass Process invented in 1957 by Pilkington Group, a multinational glass manufacturer.
What is flush mount glass? Basically, a larger piece of glass, designed to fit within the OE opening leaving only a 1/8" gap. The new glass eliminates the need for trim or weather stripping and instead uses a FRIT band, primer and super adhesive urethane to fasten into place. The specific size and shape of the new glass paired with the install method allows for an OE fit with no body modifications. Primer and adhesive are not included. The FRIT band is the black border around the glass, not a separate part.
Besides its exclusivity in the marketplace, Fesler Flush Mount Glass is distinctive because of its meticulous manu facturing process and materials that date back to the 1930s when Libbey-Owens-Ford (LOF) manufactured most domestic automotive glass. Our glass is manufactured using the same process and the same molds (side glass) as OE manufactures did back in the day, guaranteeing our glass will fit just as good, if not better than it did from the factory.
Each set of flush mount glass has been manufactured to mimic OE standards including the faint green hue rooted in every piece. Not known to most but the green hue is what makes our glass officially recognized by the Skin Cancer Foundation for blocking 99.9% of harmful UVA rays. Just as with newer cars, each windshield is laminated safety glass while the rear pieces are tempered.
Chevy Truck Windshield Wiper Blade Assembly, 15", 1967-1972
Replacing glass in a 1968 Chevrolet C10 Truck
Not all it’s cracked up to be
No matter the degree of professionalism, friends helping friends can end up working in less-than-professional environments. Employed as a fabricator for a big 'n' busy rod shop, our friend Eric Preuss is anything but a backyard guy. On his own time, however, he does enjoy working at home in the great outdoors. From time to time friends get involved, and here we are in Preuss' backyard where we'll assist with the installation of a new windshield and sliding backglass for his personal pickup project—a 1968 Chevrolet C10.
We could just call an automotive glass shop; the mobile glaziers that we know are not spoiled. They're well accustomed to working outdoors—and sometimes in the dirt. Truth be told, our backyard setting is the very same dirt on which the subject truck was successfully painted just a month or so prior. The house-calling painter was Preuss' coworker, Andy Meeh. Meeh's no backyard guy either, but his generous exception makes him another good example of friends helping friends.
When Preuss asked yours truly to lend a hand with glass-installation chores, I had to confess that I love the sound it makes—when it breaks. On that note, Preuss opted to recruit the talents of yet another friend. Like Preuss and Meeh, Jimmy Benitez is not a backyard guy. Well versed in all phases of professional rod building, Benitez knows his way around the collision repair business as well. Benitez is not a bona fide glazier, but at his current day job, this fairly straightforward glass installation would be all in a day's work.
So, given the choice, would we rather hire the local glazier who'll make this job look easy as quoted for $250 or would we rather watch a ragtag group of Eric's friends do it in the dirt for free? If we choose the latter, there'll be no trade secrets withheld as we openly divulge all of what little we know. The backglass is an aluminum-framed slider. We wouldn't likely break that on our worst day. "I bought the windshield for $90," Preuss says. "If we break two, I'm still ahead." On that note, we'll be in the backyard.
01 So, we're on our way to install parts from three different sources. Before we begin, let's try to anticipate what we'll need: gloves, masking tape, paper towels, water-diluted dish soap, clothesline rope, and assorted glazier-style hook tools for starters. Also, come to think of it, a full box of bandages might be nice.
02 Just prior to our arrival, Eric Preuss made a run to Harbor Freight for this handy five-piece tool set. The windshield sealant will be used later on as a final step.
03 From Brothers Truck Parts, this OEM-quality rubber seal came rolled in its packaging. Preuss put it in position ahead of time so it could assume a proper set. With the windshield leveled on this portable work stand, Jimmy Benitez uses maskin' tape, a plumb bob, and a dull Sharpie to locate and mark the windshield's center.
04 To this point the rubber seal is dry, which helps it stay put on the edges of the glass. For the same reason, the OEM reveal moldings are inserted dry as well. These stainless steel moldings have an L-shaped hook, which must be guided deep into the L-shaped groove of the seal for a proper appearance and secure hold. Note that there were two different windshield trim kits used on the 1967-72 trucks. Be sure to use the corresponding seal that matches your trim.
05 The moldings' center clip fills the gap at the bottom. With the lower end hooked, it's rotated upward by thumb until it snaps into place for keeps. The upper-corner slide-clips are a little trickier. For those joints, the clips are slid over the top edges of the vertical moldings and snapped in place over the edges of the upper, horizontal molding.
06 As previously anticipated, we will indeed be using clothesline rope for these installations. Some glaziers like to pull from bottom-to-top. Others prefer top-to-bottom. For a glass of this weight, bottom-to-top works best for us. Here while the rubber is still dry, Benitez pushes one end into the lower-center of the groove—stopping here for now.
07 Then water-diluted dish soap is sprayed, all the way around the rubber seal and into the groove.
08 Next, the clothesline rope is inserted into the soapy seal, all the way around and as deep as it will go. At this point our windshield is ready for installation, but first, let's have a look at our target.
09-10 Before we take aim, let's measure. The opening's center will be located and marked, just as we've seen done on the windshield. This is not a common practice amongst the glaziers we know, but for us it helps to ensure that the moldings' center and corner-clips will end up uniformly positioned.
11 With upper and lower centers now marked, we can align the seal, lay it to rest on the pinch weld and begin our installation. Now I ain't no expert, but wouldn't this work better if the rope's ends were dangling inside the cab? Let's lift this back out and try again.
12 So, now the windshield and soaped up seal are pretty much in position—with the rope's ends on the inside of the cab. After this bit of initial wigglin', jigglin', and so on, Benitez and Preuss will show us the ropes.
13 Through the soapy residue we see the first pull. We'll apply some downward palm pressure to the outside of the glass as he goes, but Benitez won't pull too much rope at one time. He knows from previous experience that the settling seal will need a little help from hook tools—especially later around its innermost lip.
14 So far the rope pulling is going pretty easily as Benitez and Preuss gang up on the installation. While they're working, I believe I'll hang through the backglass hole, take pictures, and offer up unwanted advice.
15-16 By this time there's been a bunch of downward hand-slapping on the glass and the rope is now pulled free all the way around. The innermost lip of the new rubber seal still needs relief in places. For the purpose of persuasion, these basic glazier-style tools help to complete the windshield's installation.
17-18 Next up is this sliding backglass assembly. Granted, it ain't much to look at, but it is a nice option for in-cab wind control. This specific-purpose rubber seal came from the slider's manufacturer. Its attitude is different from that of Brothers' OEM-quality front seal, so Jimmy employs masking tape before the usual soap and rope.
19 Since the backglass installation will not involve reveal moldings, the procedure should be simpler. Due to the assembly's flatness, however, it'll have to be held in place from the outside as we go.
20-21 Let's not be frightened by the man outside the window. That's only Preuss, holding things in place and applying a bit of downward pressure as Benitez begins to pull the rope. At first we'd thought that the seal was a sloppy fit on the slider's aluminum edges, but now at this stage it's all but installing itself.
22 Once again this little hook tool comes into play for minor seal adjustments. This easy installation calls for celebration.
23 From here we'll let Preuss clean up his own soap scum. When things are clean enough, he'll stop and allow a few days of dry-up time before he lifts the seal's outside lip to squeeze in a small bead of sealant.
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Windshield 1972 c10
When you put the windshield gasket onto the windshield, .. in that channel ONLY, put a hefty coat of KY in that grove. Of course it's going to be slippy getting it on the windshield but once you get it tight around the edge and pulled where it's supposed to be ( the normal fit on the windshield) .. flip the glass.
Install your 67-70 trim. As you do, pull the gasket toward you and down until you get the grove to seat. .. not only in the gasket but behind the glass and tape it good to the glass. Not multiple layers.. just one layer of blue tape. Work your way all the way around the glass like this. Taping about every 8" as you go. I like to leave about 12" on both directions of the upper corners. I'll tell you why in a sec. .. Making sure the upper corners of the trim are as far up as they'll go.
Now for the rope. Feed the rope in, behind each run of your tape. Make sure when you push the rope down into the gasket, it's down absolutely as far as it can go, all the way around the glass. Criss Cross at the top like I'm sure you have been.
Here's the Key - Put a good heavy coat of KY around the pinch weld where your windshield seats into the cab. KY is water based, and wont hurt your paint like a petroleum based lubricant. It doesnt drip, you wont get spray all over the dash, etc.
Now, sit the windshield into the cab, making sure both upper corners go in first. ( this is why you leave about 12" away from the top corners) In my opinion, you will have to have two people. Three helps a bunch. The third person is your rope person. Two people keep slight upward pressure and down on the glass as you rope it in.
Remember the KY in the grove of the windshield and the gasket? This is going to allow the glass to move in the gasket as you work it in. This is why the chrome wont stay in. Youre actually pulling it off the 'hook' inside that gasket as you rope it in. (Ex. the gasket has to flex and pull around the glass but it cant because the rubber kinda sticks to the glass. ) As you pull over to one corner, do the other side.. Then down, and around the lower edges. You'll notice the windshield will slip into place.. now have your two guys outside keep an open hand, slight pressure down on the glass as you pull the lower lip over. Making sure that secondary lip is over the pinch weld all the way around the windshield (from the inside)
I promise, .. you'll see better results. Give it a shot. I used the cheap stuff from CVS / Walgreens (whatever pharmacy you have ) KY will just wipe off of course but the key is keep it out of that grove where your trim goes. Good luck man.
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Last edited by CC69Rat; 03-11-2018 at 07:19 PM. Sours: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=759052
Chevrolet C10 Pickup Windshield Sun Shades
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Re: 1972 Windshield Gasket with Chrome
heck,i did mine by myself,it didn't seem too hard,but it did take a little time,just use alot of lube(soapy water) and a string,take your time,and it should go in w/out a problem
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