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Best Foam Gliders and Foam RC Planes

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Flying planes is a rewarding pastime. I’m not talking about the Real McCoy though I’m sure they’re great fun too. There’s just something magical about controlling your own aircraft. We’ve seen this fascination for thousands of years and it all began with kites.

But taking to the sky with a foam glider or foam remote controlled plane? Well, it takes the enjoyment to a whole new level. In this guide, we show you the best options that you can get.

ZUINIUBI Throwing Glider
6.4 oz
Throwing glider
Durable and very lightweight, easy to throw (fly).
Check Amazon
Best Value
Volantex RC Racing Glider
37 oz
Glider sailplane
Durable craft and high-quality EPO and PP.
Check Amazon
Top Pick
Timber 1.5m PNP with Floats
50.3 oz
PNP RC plane
Durable Z-FoamTM and shock-absorbing landing gear.
Check Amazon

The Benefits of Foam Planes

Don’t be put off by the material. Foam has a lot going for it over balsa wood and ply.

We often see foam as a cheap throwaway material used in packaging and for insulation purposes. Yet there’s another serious side to this amazing material when it comes to flying model planes.

Here are some of the more notable benefits of using foam for modeling:

  • Depron foam is extremely lightweight and moisture resistant
  • Has an amazing strength to weight ratio
  • Much less expensive than balsa
  • Doesn’t have grain which makes it uniformly strong from all directions
  • Larger planes and gliders are incredibly lightweight
  • Foam is homogenous (doesn’t vary in grain, strength, or density)
  • Resilient to the point where it can deform and return to its previous form
  • Rapid construction; great choice for children and older enthusiasts

There are advantages and disadvantages of all glider and RC plane materials. A craft made from balsa—and of similar weight and construction—should be stronger. Foam is also more prone to deform, especially over the longer term. Planes built from balsa have better aesthetics and tend to look more real than their foam counterparts. The quality is noticeable to the touch as well.

Should You Opt for a Foamie?

Only you can decide whether a foam plane is for you or not. This guide can certainly help you to make a better-informed decision. The cheaper crafts are especially popular with novice pilots and first-time flyers. These models come in all different shapes, sizes, and price ranges. They can start at just a few bucks and go up to several hundred dollars.

Some of the better-built foamies can look as good as—or better than—balsa planes. The difference being the balsa crafts can take a long time to construct. That’s fine for someone who enjoys putting their own airplane or glider together. Most folks, though, just want to get out there and start flying.

The great thing about flying any kind of electric RC or manual plane is the communities. That means there’s no shortage of folks willing to help newbies or pass on their tips and experiences. If you want to dip your toe into foam planes, it costs very little to try at the beginner end.

Not all Foam Is Equal

Not all foam is the same but the material used for flying airplanes is pretty durable stuff. There are different types of foam used for certain applications.

For RC planes you will typically see the following foams named as the main material:

  • Expanded Polystyrene (EPS)
  • Expanded Polypropylene (EPP)
  • Polypropylene (PP)
  • Expanded Polyolefin (EPO)
  • Depron

Most Ready-To-Fly (RTF) foam aircraft use EPO. Some companies use trade names for their version of foam materials. For example, with Horizon Hobby (a leader in radio controlled airplanes) it’s Z-Foam. Multiplex RC is another industry giant. They call their foam material ELAPOR which is similar to EPP. Makers of lightweight indoor planes typically use Depron which is ideal for slow gliding in tight spaces.

Indoor planes often use balsa or carbon spars to make the craft even stronger. It makes sense when you consider the likelihood of bangs and crashes indoors. This brings me on to my next point.

What Happens When You Break a Foamie

Foam gliders and RC planes are usually easy to repair but be careful. Not all adhesives are equal so you have to match the right glue with the right foam material. Using the wrong glue may cause a bad reaction with the foam, like melting, for example. Always try a little on a test area if you’re not sure. You need to use a product that is foam safe or foam-friendly so be sure to check the labels.

Repairing a damaged foam glider or RC is not difficult—in theory. It may take a little practice to make a neat job of it though. The secret is to prepare well and use the right product.

A few types of glue that are foam-safe include, but are not limited to:

  • Gorilla Glue (also waterproof and recommended)
  • Cyanoacrylate Glue (CA)
  • Elmer’s All-Purpose Glue
  • Aleene’s Foamtastic Glue
  • AdTech Two Temp Hot Glue Gun (use low temp for foam)

Here’s a final word of caution about repairing foam gliders and RC planes with glue. These glues can be incredibly strong so make sure the adhesive only goes where you need it. Some will give off really strong fumes too, especially CA glue. Always repair the model in well-ventilated areas. And finally, some glue will set almost instantly so prepare for this before you start the repairs.

About My Guide

My guide lists seven amazing foam crafts across a broad price range. I’ve arranged them by price for your convenience starting with the least expensive models first. These seven picks are not simply the result of my own selection. For this list, I took the views of industry experts into consideration along with real user reviews. The table below shows these foam crafts in the order they appear in this guide.

Best Foam Gliders and Foam RC Planes Comparison Table

1. ZUINIUBI Throwing Glider Inertia Plane

ZUINIUBI Throwing Glider Inertia PlaneView on Amazon

Editor’s Rating: 4.4/5

We’ll start right at the beginner end with a really cool kid-friendly throwing foam glider. If you want to introduce your young ones to model flying, then this is a fun and economical way to start.

  • Best feature 1: Well-balanced cheap throwing glider
  • Best feature 2: Easy to assemble
  • Plus points: Durable Lightweight EPP material, fly indoors or out, easy to throw,
  • Minus points: Weak tail section

This craft may not be a serious foam glider but it provides plenty of fun times for kids. It’s stable, well-balanced, and durable. It might only be a toy but it can stand up pretty well to moderate crashes. Another noteworthy thing about the ZUINIUBI Throwing Glider is the lightweight high-quality EPP foam. Kids can spray paint the body and customize the aircraft with colors of their choice.

The ZUINIUBI glider is the perfect birthday gift that’s bound to put a smile on any young face.

The Not So Good

The only disadvantage is the weak tail section that can break if you throw (launch) it from there. The way to avoid this is to always remember to throw the glider from under its belly.


Tech Specs
Type: Throwing glider
Level: Kids
Materials: EPP foam
Flying weight: 6.4 oz. (181 g)
Wingspan: 19″ (48 cm)
The Pros
Well-balanced for ultimate flight
Easy to assemble
Very lightweight
Easy to throw (fly)
Safe to throw indoors as well as outside on windless days
The Cons
Weak tail section

2. Top Race Remote Controlled Race Trainer

Top Race Remote Controlled Race TrainerView on Amazon

Editor’s Rating: 4.2/5

The second pick goes to the Top Race RC airplane with 3-channel remote controller. It’s a ready-to-fly (RTF) craft which means you’re pretty much equipped to take to the skies right out of the box.

  • Best feature 1: Ready-To-Fly (RTF)
  • Best feature 2: 3-channel airplane
  • Plus points: 6-axis gyro system, beginner/intermediate/expert modes, high flying
  • Minus points: Average flight time, useless in windy conditions

The Top Race RC is a race trainer EPP Styrofoam airplane. It’s great for anyone but a particularly good first-time user choice. It’s also ideal for experienced pilots who need to sharpen their flying skills.

The three channels operate the elevator, rudder, and throttle. The throttle has a speed control knob which gives pilots better handling thanks to the integral 6-axis gyro system. The 6-axis gyro results in added stability and resistance to altitude displacement. It also lessens unwelcome speeding-up and that makes it easier for beginners to hard landings and crashes.

Fun at Any Level

Although Top Race aims their lightweight RC airplane at the beginner, it’s still a fun craft to fly at any level. Once you sharpen your piloting skills you can simply move on to Intermediate Mode and finally Expert Mode. This puppy can reach quite a height with a maximum altitude of 320 feet. The max flying time isn’t long at just 12 minutes per charge but it’s still an average time all the same.

The Not So Good

One of the main gripes of this product is that it uses a non-standard battery connection. The average flight time also means flying is short lived. It’s a good idea to buy one or two extra batteries to extend flights. Another complaint is that the plane isn’t too good in windy conditions. It’s a common problem with all lightweight crafts. The lighter they are the harder they are to fly in blustery weather.

The beginner mode has self-stabilization which makes it better to handle in winds. It’s best to not fly in breezy conditions though. This way you’ll reduce the risk of crashes, and get longer battery life.


Tech Specs
Type: Race Trainer
Level: Beginner to expert
Materials: EPPStyrofoam
Flying weight: 24 oz. (680g)
Wingspan: 15.7″ (40cm)
Flight time: 12 minutes
Flying Range: Up to 320 FT
The Pros
Great beginner airplane
3-channels for better flight control
Three flying modes
High flying (altitude)
The Cons
Average flight time
Not stable in windy conditions

3. E-flite U2980 UMX Radian BNF Airplane

E-flite U2980 UMX Radian BNF AirplaneView on Amazon

Editor’s Rating: 4.3/5

The E-flite U2980 UMX Radian is a beautiful lightweight molded-foam airplane. It arrives as a Bind-n-Fly (BNF) model which means you have to do some assembly and buy a transmitter separately.

  • Best feature 1: AS3X technology
  • Best feature 2: Powerful motor
  • Plus points: Fast assembly time, excellent glide angle, 3-channel control
  • Minus points: BNF, short flight time, learning curve, fragile

There is some assembly to do with this plane but it shouldn’t take much more than an hour. The aircraft is smaller than it looks and the photos are rather misleading. Don’t let that put you off. This model flies well in the right hands, in larger indoor spaces as well as outside.

The AS3X technology provides a smoother flying experience in turbulence and windy conditions. It makes flying more fun as it gives the pilot extra control. It’s a powerful little sailplane too, despite its small size. The 3-channel control also provides pilots with some amazing soaring characteristics.

The Not So Good

This is a bind-n-fly (BNF) model. That’s fine if you already have a transmitter you can use. If not, you have to invest in your own to fly this craft. Another disadvantage is the short 8-minute flight time. You might get up to 10 minutes in ideal windless flying conditions. There’s a learning curve as well so it’s not ideal for new pilots. It’s fragile too and beginners are always more prone to crashes.


Tech Specs
Type: Glider
Level: Advanced beginner and above
Materials: Moulded-foam
Flying weight: 1.50oz. (43g)
Wingspan: 28.7″ (73 cm)
Flight time: 8-10 minutes
Flying Range: 1200 ft
The Pros
Simple construction
Lightweight yet powerful
AS3X stabilizing technology
Brushed power system for fast climbs and aerobatics
Amazing glide angle
3-channel control
Easy to land
Small size makes it ideal for flying in larger indoor spaces
The Cons
Bind-n-fly (can also be an advantage for some users)
Low average flying time
Learning curve
Fragile, easily damages on impact (easy to fix though)

4. Volantex ASW28 RC Glider

Volantex ASW28 RC GliderView on Amazon

Editor’s Rating: 4.9/5

This is a beautiful lightweight model sailplane made with high-quality PP and EPO materials. It’s pretty durable compared to a lot of similar crafts, which is especially welcome to crash-prone beginners.

  • Best feature 1: Premium quality materials
  • Best feature 2: Durable craft
  • Plus points: Quick assembly time, easy to control, brushless 850KV motor
  • Minus points: PNP, battery not included

There’s some assembly to do out of the box but nothing overly complicated. The user manual is well-written so no one’s sitting around scratching their head on that front. It’s a fun craft to fly at any level from the raw beginner to the expert. The minimum recommended age for flying the Volantex ASW28 RC Glider is 14 years.

The brushless 850KV motor is quite powerful though more experienced pilots may disagree. Even so, this beauty is stable in the sky and soars like a bird of prey with a little experience. The control range in ideal conditions is around 1,968 ft. or 600m. The flight time depends on the battery used.

The Not So Good

This is a PNP airplane (plug-n-play) so it doesn’t come with its own RC system or battery. That can be a good thing for some hobbyists as you get to choose your own receiver. You have to invest in a battery (or three) and the recommendation is a Li-Po 11.1V 1500mAh 20C.


Tech Specs
Type: Glider sailplane
Level: Beginner and above (14> yrs.)
Materials: Premium EPO& PP
Flying weight: 37oz. (1050g)
Wingspan: 100.6″ (256 cm)
Flight time: Depends on battery
Flying Range: 1968 ft
The Pros
High-quality EPO and PP
Durable craft
Quick and easy to assemble
Easy to fly at beginner level
Brushless 850KV motor (superior to brushed)
The Cons
Plug-n-Play (can also be an advantage for some users)
No battery included

5. Easy Star II Airplane Kit

Easy Star II Airplane KitView on Amazon

Editor’s Rating: 4.4/5

This is a very capable RC plane and great fun to fly. However, it’s a kit and a partial one at that. If you want to learn about customizing an RC plane then it’s well worth the investment.

  • Best feature 1: Folding propeller
  • Best feature 2: Detachable horizontal stabilizer
  • Plus points: Crash resistant, easy to repair, customizable
  • Minus points: Needs extra parts, difficult to assemble at the beginner level

Some enthusiasts are only interested in flying. Others are equally interested in putting their craft together and customizing it. If this is you then keep reading. The Easy Star II Airplane Kit is an amazing bird with a lot of interesting features.

The folding propeller is a nice touch as it reduces drag when the plane’s in glider mode. The wings can mimic a sailplane which means you can cut the power when the time’s right. Cutting the power also helps to preserve battery life and prolong flight times.

Crash-Resistant Not Crash Proof

The Elapor foam is incredibly tough—which makes the craft pretty crash-resistant—despite its light weight. Crash-resistant doesn’t mean crash-proof though. The good news is the material’s easy to repair with the right adhesive if you do damage the plane.

The Not So Good

Before you decide to buy this RC plane make sure you know what you get. Or to be more specific, make sure you know what’s not included. It’s a customizable project that DIY enthusiasts love. It’s more for the advanced beginner than the complete novice as the assembly can be a challenge.


Tech Specs
Type: RC plane
Level: Beginner and intermediate
Materials: Elapor foam by Multiplex
Flying weight: 32oz. (907g)
Wingspan: 54″ (137 cm)
Flight time: Depends on battery
Flying Range: Not specified
The Pros
Robust craft, nice design
Easy to repair
Customizable craft
Glides and flies which adds to fun and flight time
Folding propeller
Detachable horizontal stabilizer makes it easier to transport
The Cons
Need to invest in extras
Challenging assembly

6. Phoenix Evolution RC Glider by Costzon

Phoenix Evolution RC Glider by CostzonView on Amazon

Editor’s Rating: 4.6/5

The Phoenix Evolution is another PNP kit. It could be for you if you want a handsome RC glider that’s tough, light, and easy to fly. This puppy has two wingspan options that we’ll look at in a moment.

  • Best feature 1: Durable, lightweight construction
  • Best feature 2: Two wingspan options
  • Plus points: Fast assembly, brushless motor, 600m remote distance, stable and predictable
  • Minus points: Not good in winds, PNP

Why bother with two wingspans? Well, the shorter 1600mm wing is a great choice for slope soaring and aerobatic flying. The wider wingspan is ideal for windless days where you can enjoy longer gliding sessions as you ride the thermals. But before you do any of that you have to assemble the craft. Assembly is simple enough and shouldn’t take long even at the beginner level.

Powerful, Silent, Predictable

The Phoenix Evolution sports a powerful yet low noise brushless motor. It helps to resist vibration and thus provides a smoother flying experience along with extended life. This craft will fly up to 1,968 ft. (600m) from the controller on clear windless days. The lovely thing about the Phoenix Evolution RC Glider is that it’s predictable and stable in ideal conditions.

The Not So Good

The only notable disadvantage is that the Phoenix Evolution is not too good in the wind. Although this is true of most foam planes it’s still something to think about if your environment is windy more often than not. When there’s a breeze always remember to use the shorter wingspan for better control.

This is a PNP Glider too so you have to buy the RC system and battery separately.


Tech Specs
Type: RC glider airplane
Level: Beginner up (14+)
Materials: EPO +PP
Flying weight: 44oz. (1250g)
Wingspan: 63″ (160 cm) and 102″ (259 cm)
Flight time: Depends on RC system and battery (not included)
Flying Range: 1968 ft. (600m)
The Pros
Durable and lightweight, premium foam used
2 wingspan options for different flying environments
Quick and easy to assemble
Long flight range
Predictable flyer, always stable in ideal conditions
The Cons
Unstable in windy environments
PNP Glider (PNP)

7. Timber 1.5m PNP with Floats

Timber 1.5m PNP with FloatsView on Amazon

Editor’s Rating: 4.7/5

The Timber 1.5m is a PNP RC plane that you can fly pretty much anywhere. This is thanks to its shock-absorbing landing gear, tundra-style wheels, and floats.

  • Best feature 1: Shock-absorbing landing gear
  • Best feature 2: Amazing STOL
  • Plus points: LED lights, aerobatic, brushless motor,hollow-core build, durable Z-FoamTM
  • Minus points: Floats awkward to install, not all instructions clear

The short take-off and landing capability (STOL) of this RC airplane make it the most versatile craft on the page. Two feet is all it needs in most situations. I’d say this is the ideal airplane for the advanced beginner level and above. There’s a lot of attention gone into the details.

Take the realistic LED lights as an example. You’ve got landing lights, navigation lights, beacons, and even wing-tip strobes. These are preinstalled and simply powered by the craft’s battery. As a flying machine, you get the aerobatics of a sports plane but also a capable off-field adventure craft. Let’s not forget it’s a competent float plane as well. It really is a great all-rounder.

Tough As Well as Capable

None of these fine features would matter if the build couldn’t handle it. It can. There are the powerful brushless motor and a hollow-core build. The material used is a durable Z-Foam that’s easy to repair.

The Not So Good

The disadvantages are not major but still worth a mention. Some pilots say the floats are awkward to install. Others complain that parts of the instructions are difficult to follow. I agree. Some aspects of this plane can be tricky which is why I recommend it for advanced beginners and above.


Tech Specs
Type: PNP RC plane
Level: Advanced beginner and above
Materials: Durable Z-FoamTM
Flying weight: 50.3oz. (1417g)
Wingspan: 61″ (155 cm)
Flight time: Depends on RC system and battery (not included)
The Pros
Durable Z-FoamTM
Hollow-core build
Flexible flyer
Amazing STOL
Shock-absorbing landing gear
LED lights
Brushless motor
The Cons
Not assembly-friendly at the raw beginner level
Some parts of the instructions are not clear



Introduction: Foamboard RC Glider

In this Instructable we will create a simple foam board glider for hand launches, thermal soaring, slope soaring, and high starts. Why fly gliders? They are cheap to build and relaxing to fly. It is an interesting challenge to see how long you can keep it aloft. We have kept it up for a few minutes. How long can you fly it for? It is constructed from Dollar-Tree foam board and costs less than 5 dollars for the air frame and less than 60 dollars for the electronics, assuming you have no Radio Control Gear.

Step 1: Parts List


500mah 2-3S Lipo Battery with JST Connector

Battery Eliminator Circuit or Old Electronic Speed Control

Male JST Connector

2 9 gram servos

4-6 Channel 2.4Ghz Transmitter and Receiver


Build Materials

Hot Glue

Popsicle Sticks

Packing tape

2 30 inch 3/8" Wooden Dowel Rods or Carbon Fiber Tubes (Lighter)

4 20"x 30" sheets of ADAM's Readiboard/Light Poster board with paper on both sides

5 Control Horns

1/4"x 2" Spring (optional)

Fishing Line

0.047" Music Wire

Zip Ties

Rubber Bands

Launch System

Bungee Launch Cable

Fishing Line


Hot Glue Gun

Soldering Iron


X-Acto Knife or Utility Knife


Step 2: Mark the Foam

In this step we will mark where we will cut to construct our plane's fuselage, wing, and tail. To save paper, ink, and your time we made all cuts straight and all parts easily defined by side measurements instead of creating traditional plans that would end up being more than twenty pieces of paper. The measurements are in the pictures and a description is given for each. Use two colors to draw the outlines. The red in the diagrams is for score cuts and the black is for complete cuts.


2 30 inch x 14 inch pieces with a score cut 8 inches from one side


2 30 inch by 1 inch foam strips

Horizontal Stabilizer:

Triangular piece with a score cut hinge


8x6 Triangle


20 inches long tapered shape, wherever there are two red lines closely adjacent it is a 3/16inch gap between the score cuts.

Step 3: Cut the Foam

For this step you will need a sharp knife. As you cut take your time. In the diagrams in the last step black lines indicate that you should cut all the way through the foam board, and red lines mean you should cut halfway through the foam, cutting the paper on one side only. If you accidentally cut all the way through however, you can simply put packing tape on the opposite side of the foam. Once you have cut out all your parts you will need to remove the foam from the 3/16" gap between the red lines on the fuselage. Crack the foam along the red lines and use your fingernails to peel the foam away. This step will take a while but take your time; if you do a bad job your fuselage will not fold well. After you have done this you are ready to assemble your plane!

Step 4: Assemble the Fuselage

In this step you will fold your currently flat fuselage into a strong 3-dimensional shape. Start by making sure your hot glue gun is as hot as it can get and that you have an extra hot glue stick handy, you will use a lot of glue in this step. Begin by putting hot glue in one of the middle two channels, then folding the foam to a 90 degree angle so that the side of the plane (the part that has a triangle at one end) is on top of the adjacent section, similar to the diagram. Repeat this step for the other side, and fold it so that it again is on top of the adjacent section. Now you should glue one of your dowels (or carbon tubes) onto the fuselage now, starting the glue bead 10 inches from the rear of the fuselage. Use lots of glue to anchor it securely.

Step 5: Center Your Servos

In this step you will prepare your servos for instillation. First put the bind plug loop into the bat port in your receiver. Next plug your esc into your receiver in port 3 with the white wire (Signal) on the left side of the pins. Now, plug your battery into your ESC. You may need to solder a male JST connector onto your BEC/ESC. There should be a red light flashing on your receiver. Next, turn on your transmitter while holding down on the "Bind" button. This will bind your receiver to your transmitter. Make sure that your Trims are centered. To do this you will need to make sure that your trim sliders are in the center for all 4 axis on both gimbals. Now plug your servos into ports 1 and 2 on your receiver. Now place the servo arm perpendicular to the servo body. Servo 2 will use the single arm, and servo 1 will use the simple double arm. Use the supplied screws to secure the servo arms to the servos. Now you have centered your servos.

Step 6: Assemble the Wing

You now need your two 30 inch by 14 inch wing sections, two 30 inch by 1 inch spar sections, 1/4 inch thick wood wing spar, packing tape, and several extra hot glue sticks. Start by connecting the two wing sections. place the two sections next to each other, lining up the score cuts and the edges. Place a strip of packing tape on one side and flip the pieces over. Run a bead of glue in the crack then lay the pieces flat, using a scrap piece of foam to squeegee the glue, once the glue is dry add a piece of packing tape over it. You now have an extremely strong joint. Stronger in fact, than the foam itself!!! Once you have attached the pieces connect the score cuts by carefully cutting through the tape and glue with your knife, then cracking the foam so it can fold over. Remove the paper from the 6 inch by 60 inch side. Cut one of the 30 inch by 1 inch spar sections in half. Mark 1 inch back from the score cut on the 8 inch by 60 inch side at both edged of the foam and in the middle. Using a straightedge draw a line between the marks. Mark the 30 inch by 1 inch spar section at 15 inches, then glue it to the wing on the line centering it using the mark you made. Glue the two 15 inch sections on the line completing a full span foam spar. Next, we will glue the wooden spar in. Make a mark at the center of your spar and glue it behind the foam spar. For the next step you will need a decent hot glue gun. If you are using a mini hot glue gun, stop here and go find some superglue or gorilla glue, your hot glue gun will need to be able to output a large amount of glue for this step. It may also be necessary for you to get a plank of wood to use to apply pressure to the fold evenly. The two links point to videos demonstrating folding a wing. To fold the wing you will need to put glue on top of the foam and wooden spars, then fold the foam over and the score cut, with the side without paper internal. Press down and hold the wing for 30-60 seconds until you are positive the glue has cooled. Once this has cooled you will need to squirt glue between the two pieces of foam on the trailing edge of the wing, and fold it down, squeegeeing excess glue and holding the pieces together until the glue is cool. You now have the basic wing!!!

Step 7: Install the Servos

You now need to install the servos. Tie the fishing line to the elevator servo arm, and put hot glue on the knot for extra security. You can then glue the elevator servo 2 inches in front of the tail boom, with the wires towards the front of the fuselage. The aileron servo will be mounted vertically. Glue it upright, then glue scrap foam next to it to anchor it securely in place.

Step 8: Assemble the Tail

To assemble the tail you need your vertical and horizontal stabilizer pieces. Glue the vertical stabilizer to the side opposite the score cut, and make sure it is at a 90 degree angle to the horizontal stabilizer and is straight. Glue the assembly to the tail boom. Once this is glued you can move to the next step!!!

Step 9: Hinge the Control Surfaces

To hinge the control surfaces you will need a very sharp knife. Take your time. Remember though, if you cut the paper you can always use a little packing tape to fix it. You will need to hinge the elevator on the score line already cut. For the ailerons you should measure one inch from the trailing edge of the wing, then cut off the excess foam and hinge the ailerons in line with the trailing edge of the wing. The video demonstrates the process of cutting an angle for a hinge.

Step 10: Add Control Linkages

The control linkages transfer movement from the servos to the control surfaces. We will start with the elevator. First, glue the control horn to the top of the control surface of the elevator, with it's holes above the hinge, then attach your spring or rubber band to the top hole of the horn, Attach the other side of the spring or rubber band to another control horn, again at the topmost hole, and attach that control horn at a point on the horizontal stabilizer where there is a light to medium pull when the elevator is in the up position. After this, glue a control horn to the bottom side of the elevator control surface and tie the end of the fishing line attached to the servo to the topmost hole of the control horn. You should now turn your radio on and connect power to your receiver. This will prevent the servos from moving and let you center the control surface without using the limited trims on your radio. Pull the fishing line tight and tie a knot around the horn, adjusting it so that the surface is flat without you holding it. Once it is secure test the control linkage by wiggling the right stick on your transmitter. The surface should move. Moving on to ailerons; You will need two 15 inch sections of music wire, thin nose pliers, and 2 more control horns for this step. Bend one end of each of the wire sections into a "Z" shaped bend, about 1/4" between bends. Insert these ends into your aileron servos arms in the outermost holes. Glue the control horns so that the holes are in line with the hinge. Bend your wire so that it goes through the top holes of the control horns at a length where the control surfaces are level with the bottom of the wing. Complete the Z-Bend to secure the wire in place and cut away the excess wire. Test this by moving your transmitters right stick. The ailerons should move in opposite directions.

Now that all that is done, it is time to finish your fuselage. Fold the nose and glue it together, then glue the bottom of the fuselage on to the sides. On the top, cut a 6 inch long hatch and glue your receiver and ESC or BEC in. Do not glue your battery in, use tape for now, you may need to move it later.

Step 11: Attach the Wing to the Fuselage

To attach the wing securely to the fuselage we will glue it. Add lot of hot glue to a 6 inch section of the fuselage, then attach the wing and make sure it is square to the fuselage and centered. Test this joint, not too hard, but definitely test it, If it breaks easily in the workshop it will break at the worst possible moment while flying. Simple as that, on to the next step!

Step 12: Attach the High Start Hook

For the high start hook you can simply hot glue a Popsicle stick on the fuselage towards the wing where the fuselage tapers, leaving about 2 inches for the high start cable to loop around. Simple, and it works well.

Step 13: Assemble the Bungee

Next you will setup your high start. First, lay your bungee out on the floor in a straight line so that there are no tangles in the bungee. (Some troubleshooting may be required) Get a string, like the string to a kite. It ideally should be around 50m but it will work with 10m. The string should be as lightweight as possible. Now, find one end of the bungee and tie the string to it in a square knot. To tie a square knot, take the bungee in one hand, and the string in the other. Now put the one in your right hand over the one in the left and loop it under the left one, and switch which hand is holding which. Now take the one in your left and put it over the one in your right. Now bring the one in your left around and through the hole you formed. Pull tight. There are videos on YouTube if you need help. Now take a light plastic bag (Like a grocery bag) and cut out a section 10” by 15” and tie it 10”-20” down from the top of the string. Now secure the bag with hot glue for security. Finally, attach a zip tie to the top of the string so that it forms a 1” diameter circle (Oval is ok too). Now tie the string to the zip tie with a few overhand knots. Congrats, you've finished the High Start! On to the next step!

Step 14: Set Up Your Radio

Next you will attempt :-) to setup your radio for flight! First plug the servo that has the fishing line/string coming out of it (The servo that moves your elevator) into port 2 on your receiver. Next plug the servo that moves your ailerons into port 1 on your receiver. Now plug your battery into your esc and turn on your receiver. A red light should come on in your receiver (if it doesn’t you will need to male sure your receiver and transmitter). Next test your servos by moving the sticks. When you move the right gimbal upwards the elevator surface should move downwards. If it does not, use the switches below the gimbals to reverse the direction. (Hit the switch with the corresponding label) When you move the elevator stick downwards the elevator should move upwards. Next, test the ailerons by moving the stick on the right gimbal right and left. When you move the stick to the right the aileron on the left wing should move downwards and the aileron on the right should move upwards. If the opposite happens, simply reverse the ailerons through the aileron switch like before. When you move the stick to the left the aileron on the left wing should move upwards and the aileron on the right should move downwards.

Step 15: Go Fly

Before you fly though, one last thing. Make sure that your plane balances 2 inches back from the leading edge of the wing. Move the battery around in the fuselage until it balances perfectly. Do this right or it will CRASH. On your first flight give it a light toss and maintain a slight downward angle; you do not want to stall the glider. To use the high start cable anchor the bungee securely to the ground then walk back holding the zip tie until the bungee is stretched to its limit. This should be quite a distance. You can then hook the zip tie to the Popsicle stick and release the glider at a slight upward angle. Minimize how much you control the glider on the way up. Before you fly you may also want to watch a few videos on YouTube about how to fly an radio controlled plane in the case that you have never flown one before. Find a nice big field, and have a blast! If you enjoyed this Instructable, please vote for me in the things that fly contest! It means a lot.

Step 16: Modifications


Cover the foam with packing tape for increased strength

Use 2 servos for ailerons and program flaps

Add a rudder

Add a motor

Add a tow release

Make a V-Tail version

New decals

Add a MASSIVE motor for speed

Cut the wing size down

Add a camera

Add dihedral

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Building a Bixler style $10 Foam RC Glider


After being inspired by Flite Test's recent video on converting cheap foam gliders to RC, I had to try it myself. Josh's build looked like it flew fantastically, so I set out to make my own plane similar to his. The end result? 100% awesomeness! Check the video below for one of my first flights then continue down for the build. This would be a great way for someone to get in to the hobby as the plane flies amazing even in 10-15mph winds.

EDIT: Bonus FPV tail cam footage with a crash at the end!


For this build I am using a setup similar to how Bixler built his in the original video. I bought my glider from Hobby Lobby for around $6.50 with a 40% off coupon. I highly recommend going to Hobby Lobby and looking on their website for a coupon. Parts to complete this build are as follows:

TOTAL COST = $126.05 

That is if you buy everything new. Almost everything I used was salvaged from other builds except the motors, so I spent about $35 on this. Now that all that is out of the way, lets get building!

Start by cutting out your elevons from some DTFB. These are super simple to make and can be modifed to look however you'd like. Here is a simple template for cutting out some elevons.

Download the Elevon Template HERE

After cutting out your two elevons, apply some packing tape to the underside of both. Just do the bottom for now so your hinge tape will stick to the paper and not the tape. Trim the tape so that is is flush with the edges of the elevons. This is not necessary but will improve water resistance and longevity. 

Now, cut a single bevel on the bottom of each elevon where they will butt up against the elevator. Proper orientation is so the outside edge of the elevon is straight with tail surface.

Now apply tape to the top of each elevon and trim it so it is flush with the edges.

Carefully butt each elevon up against the tail and apply the tape. Make sure you use a scrap piece of foam to smooth out any air bubbles. 

Make sure that the elevons have free and smooth range of movement both up and down.

Next, apply 2 more layers of tape to reinforce the hinge. I used one piece favoring the tail, and another favoring the elevon.

Now your tail section is complete! Sit back and admire your handiwork. I think if I destroy this air frame, this tail section is going to be built in to a micro flying wing!

Let's move on to the wings. You will need a carpenters square for this step. Place the flat edge of the square on the inside edge of the wing where it braces against the fuselage. Measure out ~3.5" and make a few marks on the wing with a pencil. This will be where the inside edge of the nacelle will sit.

Hopefully your nacelles are already built. You can cut these out of plywood by hand, or download the STL file I made and have them 3D printed. I opted to print them as I have access to a printer at work and PLA is incredibly cheap. I printed these with 100% infill and CA glued them together and they are very strong.
Download the Nacelle/Firewall STL file HERE

Take your nacelles and place them on the wing, lining up the inside edge with the marks you made earlier. Do this step with the props attached to make sure you have clearance for them on the wing. Then, using a little force and a rocking motion, press the nacelles in to the wing to leave an indent. 

I then took a razor blade and did a light score cut in to the foam following where my indents were. Then, using a blunt object like a dull pencil, scrape the foam out.

Give the nacelles a firm push in to the foam. You want them to sit flush with little to no pressure applied. 

Take your hot glue gun and glue the nacelles down to your wing. I used a bead of glue around the perimeter and some extra on the bottom to make sure they are good and stuck. Notice how I have this nacelle positioned, with the prop just barely clearing the leading edge of the wing.

Repeat these steps on the other wing and you now have motors ready to go! Note that I installed 2mm bullet connectors on my motors so that I can remove my wings easily for transport. I also put little dots on the connectors with a gold sharpie so that I connect them properly each time.

Let's move to the rear of the plane again. Install the tail on to the fuselage and prepare your servos. In this picture I show the "X" servo horn, but I ended up using the longer 3 hole horn as these did not provide the throw I wanted.

Place your servo near the leading edge of the tail and glue it down just like you would on any FT scratch build. 

Next, take a push rod and control horn and mock up where you are going to mount the horn. The push rod should be in a straight line with the horn, and the eyelet of the horn should be centered over your hinge. 

Push the control horn down in to your elevon to make an indent of where you want it to sit. Then take a razor blade and cut a score in the center of your indent. Push the control horn down in to the score cut to verify it is sitting flush.

Glue down your control horn, trim your push rod and set the center on the elevon with the servo stopper. I made my elevons level with the tail surface and it flew perfect with no trimming.

Now repeat these steps on the other side. You now have elevon control! For reference, my control horns are mounted ~3/4" from the inside edge of the elevon.

Now all that is left in the final details to make everything work. Here is the receiver I am using, a FlySky FS-iA6B. I flipped it upside down and dug out foam from the fuselage so that the bump sits down in to the foam, but not so deep that I cannot remove or install servo wires. I then glued it in to place. I also used a small flat head screwdriver to make a channel that the antenna wire can sit in, then glued the antennas down in the proper orientation. 

If you are using ESCs with a built in BEC, make sure tocut the power wire from one of the 2.

I then used the screwdriver method to make channels for the servo wires, and routed and connected them to the receiver. You can also see the longer control horns I used in the second picture. Note that the servos are not connected to the proper ports in this picture. For my FlySky setup, CH1 is L Elevon, CH2 is R Elevon, CH3 is L ESC, CH4 is unused and CH5 is R ESC. I setup my radio for elevon control and used 3 mix channels to setup the R ESC and differential thrust. 

Mount the wings to the fuselage and mock up where you want your ESCs. Once you are happy with where they are, use a small amount of glue and stick them down. Notice that I spliced the power wires of both together in to a single XT30 connector. Also now is a good time to put down a strip of velcro for your battery to attach to.

Place your battery on the underside of the plane and move it around to find the proper CG. This build was perfectly balanced without the battery installed, so the best location for me was centered on the CG. I made some marks with a sharpie to remember the proper battery placement. I also ended up sticking a battery tester down to the velcro so I knew when to bring her in for a landing.

Now it's time to bind your transmitter and do the final setup! I am using a elevon mix in my radio, and a 75% differential thrust mix for yaw. My low rates have everything turned down to 50% with 30% expo, and sport rate are 100%. On low rates the plane fly very docile and is an absolue beginners dream! On high rates you can do awesome bank and yanks, flips and flat spins on command!!


Time to go throw it in the air and have a blast! This is now my favorite plane in my arsenal. I get about 6-8min of flight time on a 850mAh 3S depending on how I am flying it. It will cruise with as little as 20% throttle. I would recommend hand launching it with the throttle set to about 50% and give it a good toss.

Now, what are you waiting for? Go build one of these for yourself!

I hope you enjoyed my first article! I have learned so much from this site that it was time I gave something back :)

Link to the original video that inspired this build:

The Works £3 Foam Glider #01

RC Sailplanes


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Rc glider foam

I dont know how this is possible, probably there is nothing sacred in a person, I wrote this in my diary. and send it to you in VK. read and forget me as I will try to forget you.

RC Foam Board Glider Airplane Design Calculator

Porous rubber as a sealant or insulation. Well, the three of us, J. Dimka and another classmate of mine, picking up one piece of this round porous rubber, went swimming and I waving at her attracted. Attention. - Wow, what a member of Sergo said Dimka.

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And dad works on - he can't. Syd is seen opening up to take Dad's slippery club deeper and deeper again and again. How this fat cock straightens all her insides and intestines, how dad holds her. And how Sydney is fed and follows back, following the slippery member coming out (sometimes with a squelch) from her. You feel how your little sister hugs and squeezes dad, how she bends under the furious pressure of a parted dad.

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