Civic ebay turbo

Civic ebay turbo DEFAULT
  1. 02-01-2013, 12:12 AM#1

    Default Stockish 99 R/T vs 95 Civic W/ Ebay turbo kit.

    I just bought a 1999 R/T with a CAI, Exhaust and 180 Thermostat. My Friend has this 95 Honda Civic with a EBay turbo kit. It’s a 5 speed and I’ve seen it make 10psi of boost. He thinks its god gift to street racers and bets it will eat my Dakota for lunch. I’ve grown up around the drag strip and would like to think I know how to drive. Would I be able to show up this ricer on the strip or will my American Muscle fail me? We would both be running on street tires and with 93 octane gas.

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  12. 02-02-2013, 12:06 PM#12

    Default

    I'm with everyone else, that turbo might have taken that car from 18's to high 16's.....you got that unless you sit there spinning for 2 seconds.
    -Jonathan

    2000 Intense Blue R/T Regular cab.

  13. 02-02-2013, 02:26 PM#13

  14. 02-02-2013, 02:59 PM#14

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Making An Ebay Turbo Kit "Better"

So you've decided to give boost a shot, but you have absolutely no idea where to start. Should I just buy a turbo kit, or piece together a kit of my own? and if i do, what parts can i buy without breaking the bank? Well, hopefully, the rest of this blog helps you figure that out. 

First things first. What are your Horsepower goals?

This 1 question is what can turn your build from a budget based, street setup to a down payment on a house worth of performance parts. So be wise. In this article ill be focusing on the budget minded individual. 

Ebay kit?

Ehh, they can work, and they are definitely cheap but the quality is lacking. The turbos that come with most of these Chinese kits aren't that great. While they can last at a low boost setting they almost always seem to fail once you start upping the psi. Not to mention some of these kits dont even fit right. But, there are a few "Ebay" parts that you can get away with. Such as:

  • Intercoolers

  • Intercooler piping (the piping itself will work just know you will most likely have to modify it, for this its almost better to buy piping that fits off the bat)

  • Casted turbo manifolds (may not be great quality but they last surprisingly, oh and be really careful about the "eBay special" tubular manifolds unless they are a schedule 40 thickness)

  • Couplers

  • Clamps

  • Fittings

  • Lines

  • Hardware (bolts, nuts etc)

The parts you still need are:

  • Turbo

  • Wastegate

  • Good gaskets (the china made multilayer bs, will not cut it)

  • Downpipe (s)

  • Intake filter

  • Bov

Let's go a little more in depth as to why some of the above "eBay special" parts can work.

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eBay Intercoolers: These intercoolers are by no means "quality," that being said they do the job. They don't leak, and they cool the hot air from the turbo. Their efficiency isn't great but for a budget based kit, there are a few sacrifices. 

eBay Intercooler piping:  the piping that comes with these kits is just a bunch of straights and random 90's. you can probably make it work with a little cutting, BUT I highly recommend finding someone that can tig weld aluminum. Or just buy an intercooler piping kit designed for your vehicle.

Another option for a budget based intercooler piping setup is to buy steel or stainless steel piping, it doesn't shed heat as well but it's much easier to work with, and you can find people to weld steel so much easier than finding people that can properly weld aluminum.

eBay turbo manifolds: DO NOT BUY THE THIN TUBULAR MANIFOLDS!!  At absolute minimum go with schedule 10 thickness, but schedule 40 thickness china manifolds are preferred. The thin tubular manifolds will work briefly, but they crack ALL THE TIME. The best option is to find a cast manifold(s) for your engine, as the casted manifolds are much more durable. If you can't find a casted manifold for your vehicle, look for a thick wall tubular manifold. These manifolds are still prone to cracking but they can last for quite a while before you get to that point. 

Couplers: The cheap silicone couplers on eBay will work, but you have to realize they are normally 2 or 3 plies, so they will not hold a ton of boost, and are prone to being punctured easily. Your best option is to find 4ply reinforced coupler(s) and going that route. 

Clamps:  not much to say about these, they are clamps, even the cheap ones work. A T-bolt clamp is your best bet but honestly as long as it clamps..

Fittings & Lines: The main thing when buying cheap fittings and lines is to make sure you have the right size feed and return lines for your application. Other then that just make sure that everything is sealed and tight. Also, NPT fittings are your best friend, they have a tapered thread which allows for a better seal. 

Hardware: Bolts and nuts. It's pretty self-explanatory. The Chinese hardware is surprisingly durable.

 

The Parts You Don't Cheap Out On:

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Turbo: I highly recommend you don't buy a 150-250 dollar "eBay special" turbo, they just aren't worth it especially when you have turbo companies like Borg Warner, Holset, and on3 out there. Plus most of the china turbos out there aren't balanced correctly and have issues above 12 psi.

Borg Warner turbos: Borg Warner has some of the highest quality turbos on the market, they are up there with the likes of Garrett Turbos. The cool thing about Borg warner though, is that they have SUPER bang for your buck journal turbos. like the Borg Warner 177275 sx300sx3 which is a turbo rated up to nearly 800hp for low $600. It's not going to spool up as fast as something like a Garrett GTX3576R GEN 2's but hey it's a third of the price.

Holset Turbos: Holset turbos have been around for quite a while, and they are one of the more popular choices for budget-based turbo setups. Just look around for hx35, and hx40 turbo's, you can normally find them for 200-700 bucks 

ON3 Performance turbos: This turbo company about 6 years ago was considered an "eBay" turbo company if you will. But they have stepped their game up quite a bit. It's not a borg warner type of quality but they have turbos from as low as $350, while their higher quality turbos get up to around $1200 which is still on the low end in the turbo world.

Wastegates: The reason I don't want my readers and customers to use these cheap china wastegates is that... to put it lightly, they are shit. They are prone to failing, they don't seal correctly, and they don't regulate boost very well. And when you are doing any type of turbo setup on your vehicle, the one thing you don't want is for your engine to BLOW UP because your wastegate couldn't control your boost level/psi.  

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TialSport Wastegates: My personal favorite wastegate company. I've used Tialsport parts on multiple builds, and I have nothing bad to say about their company. Most of you will be using the f38, mvs38, or the mvr44 wastegates. The wastegates are text linked if you want to read more about them, or if you want to purchase one for your build.

Turbosmart Wastegates: super high-quality wastegate and bov company. Any of their products are worth the price tbh. Most of you will probably be using the wg38 (which is similar to the f38 from Tial) as well as the Hyper-gate45.

 

Blow off valves (bov): As stated in the above wastegate section, Chinese bov's also do not seal well and leak air. This is a huge issue because it creates a boost leak right off the bat, causing idle and drivability issues, as well as tune related issues. So its always a good idea to get a high-quality bov. 

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Tialsport bov's: once again my personal choice, their 50mm Q bov is my favorite sounding bov out on the market, or if you want to do a recirculating bov their QR bov is a good option.

Turbosmart Bov: baller blow off valves, definitely check out their race port bov, you can also get one of their cheaper bovs such as their V-port bovs which as Turbosmart puts is is their "sleeper" bov for the street, and at $179 it's not going to break the bank.

Intake Filter: Get a good intake filter. The 15-25 buck ones on eBay aren't that great. The one thing you don't want happening is a crappy filter to unravel itself, allowing for some of the mesh to get dragged into your turbo and destroy the compressor housing and compressor wheel. go with a K&N, or Aem filter if you can. 

Downpipes: The reason I put this on the "don't cheap out" list is that a lot of the cheap eBay downpipes have fitment issues. The flanges are either messed up, or they are too long and hit the firewall etc. So try to find a decent quality downpipe for your setup.

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Overview:

Be smart about the parts you choose, there are cheap options out there, but always make sure to do your research. This Article is just the basics of budget based turbo parts and is a general approach. I hope the info I provided above helps a few of you with your builds. In depth pieces coming soon.

 

By: Ocean Nickel

Sours: https://www.nickelperformance.com/ebay-turbo-the-world/2018/8/1/everything-you-need-to-know-about-how-to-turbo-your-car
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How To Make 800 hp With a $163 eBay Turbo.

| How-To - Engine and Drivetrain

We've all seen them, we've all been tempted, but quite frankly, those low-buck off-shore turbos available online just seem too good to be true. Case in point, the $163 GT45 clone offered by www.ebaystores.com/dnamotoring. I mean really, just how much power can a turbo that sells for just $163 really be worth? That's like two weeks' worth of lunch money, for Chrissakes. It must surely self-destruct the moment you start the motor, or at the very least, offer considerably less than the advertised power level. In our case, none of these things came to pass, though it should be mentioned right off the bat that we did not perform any type of long-term durability test. Simple power testing, even at variable power and boost levels, does not guarantee years (or even hours) of trouble-free service.

After posting the results of this test online, we did get feedback from a number of enthusiasts who have run this turbo successfully for many years on the street and strip, so at least we know some of them work well. We figure that even if you get limited service life, paying another $163 for more turbo fun still represents a good deal. This, of course, assumes the turbo doesn't take out your motor along with it!

Now that we have the disclaimer out of the way, the important question on the table was just how much power was one of these GT45 clones really worth? We know that the inexpensive turbos available online come from China, where labor rates are much lower. Lower labor rates mean lower cost of production, which in turn mean lower pricing to the public. Many of the online sources sell the turbo seemingly at or near their cost, which only means a better deal for consumers.

Like any other turbo choice, ours was based on two criteria: power production and cost. (For guidance choosing turbos, click here.) We looked for the best combination of the highest power potential and price. The GT45 clone seemed to fit the bill, as these were advertised online with power outputs ranging from 600 hp to as high as 800 hp, depending on the seller. Though many sources offered this same turbo, the pricing varied by over $200 in some cases, and even varies from day to day from the same manufacturer. The best price we found for the GT45 clone on the day we searched was from DNA on eBay. A little research time spent behind the old keyboard goes a long way!

The cold side of DNA's GT45 clone turbo featured a 0.66 A/R, a 69mm inducer, and a 98mm exducer. The hot side included an 88mm inducer, a 77.5mm exducer, and 1.05 A/R. (What does all this mean?! Click here.) The turbine housing also featured a divided entry, though it was run with an open T4 turbo flange. Our turbo was shipped sans oil fittings, meaning we had to come up with our own oil feed and drain fittings. For the oil feed, we simply tapped the existing oil feed to accept a standard 1/8-pipe fitting. A standard aluminum, two-bolt drain fitting was run in conjunction with a brass pipe fitting. Obviously, it was necessary to install a drain fitting in the oil pan. Since the test was to measure the power output of the turbo itself, we did not include the costs of these fittings or intercooler, or any other part of the motor in the $163 description (get those comments rolling).

To maximize the power potential of the turbo, we decided to run as much boost as it would support, at least at the power peak. This meant combining it with a suitable intercooler. The turbo was run through an air-to-water cooler from ProCharger, capable of cooling much more power than our low-buck turbo had the potential to produce. It's always better to have more cooling and need less, but in our testing the cooler was run with 85-degree dyno water and not ice water (which would produce even more power).

To run this test, we also needed a suitable test motor. Luckily, we had our handy dandy, boost-ready 5.3L from Strictly Performance (SP) handy. Essentially an enhanced stock-bottom-end (SBE), the SP 5.3L featured a stock block and crank combined with Gen IV rods and hard anodized (cast) pistons. The combo also featured extra ring gap. Topping the lightly augmented short-block was a set of Katech-ported 706 heads secured by ARP head studs. For this test, the SP 5.3L was also sporting a FAST LSXR intake and Summit Stage 4 camshaft. Originally designed for an NA application, the Stage 4 Summit cam featured a 0.625/0.605-inch lift split, a 234/247-degree duration split, and 113-degree LSA. Basically, this 5.3-liter was one healthy LM7, even before adding the boost. This would allow us to easily test the flow and power limits of the DNA turbo. Need more proof? Run in naturally aspirated trim, this 5.3-liter exceeded the 500hp mark by pumping out peak numbers of 502 hp at 6,500 rpm and 432 lb-ft of torque at 5,700 rpm. Now it was time to install that $163 turbo!

In preparation for the DNA turbo, we removed the Hooker headers and replaced them with stock truck manifolds. The manifolds were swapped and aimed forward to work in conjunction with a custom Y-pipe designed to feed the single turbo. In addition to the 3-inch V-band fitting, the Y-pipe also featured a pair of flanges to accept Gen 5 waste gates from Turbo Smart. The DNA turbo was installed on the awaiting 3-inch V-band fitting using a V-band T4 flange adapter. Installation of the turbo also required the use of oil feed and drain fittings, a 3.5-inch exhaust, and channeling all that wonderful boost through the ProCharger intercooler.

It is important to note, all testing (both NA and boosted) was run on pump E85. With 89-pound FAST injectors, we had a combination capable of withstanding 1,000-plus horsepower levels. Now the question was, how far would $163 worth of boost take us? After starting at just over 5 psi, we increased boost 1-2 pounds at a time (see the second boost graph), until we eventually reached the flow limit of the DNA turbo. Running a peak of 10.6 psi at the power peak of 6,100 rpm, the turbo 5.3L produced a maximum of 793 hp and 795 lb-ft of torque. The $163 turbo could produce more boost at lower engine speeds, but simply ran out of available flow to increase the boost pressure at the power peak, but don't get it twisted. Any turbo that makes nearly 800 hp for the paltry sum of $163 is going to be plenty popular. If you're that greedy, you can always get two!

On The Dyno

Power Vs. Boost

We ran the eBay turbo at a variety of different boost levels. We started the test at just 5.3 psi, then slowly ramped up to the eventual peak boost reading (at the power peak) of 10.6 psi. The boost pressure actually reached as high at 14.0 psi in the middle of the power curve on the 10.6-psi run, but the turbo simply could not sustain that boost level at higher engine speeds. Check out the minimal gain at the top of the rev range between the 10.0- and 10.6-psi runs. Big power (torque) gains occurred lower in the rev range, but the turbo ran out of steam on the big end.

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Civic: $500 Ebay Turbo Kit Installation
- Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:49 am#139639First, be careful where you buy your turbo.
Check for shaft play (side to side and in/out).
Look for signs of leakage or carbon on the compressor side.
Look for cracks in the exhaust housing, inside and out.
Even check for stripped bolts on the housings.

If you buy new, you pay more for a piece of mind that you don't have to worry. Be careful with 'ebay' turbos, you get what you pay for. Some people have had great luck with these, others have had them literally split in half.

You can buy a kit which installs easier, but you don't always get the most WHP for your dollar.
You can save a lot of money by piecing together your own kit, but this requires a lot of research and some fabrication. But you can build your custom setup to whatever WHP goal you want to shoot for. I would like to make 250 to 275 WHP with this setup.

Be sure you have the proper octane fuel in your tank before you start installing. this will save you from having to drain your gas tank when you are ready to start your car with the turbo installed

The Turbo

I have 2 Garrett T3, one is a Super 60 and the other is a .60 trim. I have 2 because I bought the Super 60 a few years back from another honda site when I was more trusting. I met and he sold me the turbo with manifold and Spoolin DP already bolted on.
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I took it apart to install on my car and found a chipped fin on the turbine.

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But it was not a total loss, as I was able to use some parts for my .60 trim:

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Oil Restrictor

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Velocity Stack

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Compressor housing flange

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Internal Wastegate
External is better for making more power. Internal WG's will spike/boost creep sooner than an external will. External WG's also require an additional exhaust pipe and room to mount them. I went with internal because i already had the parts, even though the internal WG is probably the bottleneck in my setup when it comes to making more power.

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5 bolt housing - this is an internally waste gated housing. You can see the flap that opens to allow exhaust to bypass the turbine. This prevents too much psi. The stiffness of the spring (I have an 8 psi spring) in the wastegate determines how soon the flap will open, allowing the exhaust to bypass the turbine.

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HF manifold and Adapter plate were both sold.

So I ended up not getting screwed too badly, plus I have a spare hot side, compressor housing & wheel, and center section which are perfect for a rebuild. The turbine with the chipped fin is the only part that is junk here. $150 of parts + balancing and this could be rebuilt as good as new.

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So here's the .60 trim I am using with some of the old parts from the first turbo.

Manifold

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My manifold came with a paper gasket, but I bought an oem metal one because they are less prone to blow.

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I sold the HF manifold and purchased a new 'ebay' Drag cast manifold.
Ebay manifolds run the same risk as ebay turbos. They see high temperatures and can crack. This is more common with the tubular manifolds found on ebay. Cast is cheaper, flows a little less, and has no bling factor, but is reliable when it comes to cracking.

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The Drag manifold has an external wastegate flange on the #1 runner. My setup uses an internal WG, so I purchased a block off plate. If I was going to use an external WG, I would have bought a manifold that has the WG flange positioned so that it sees gasses from all 4 runners.

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Once you have the manifold and turbo on, clock the compressor side to get the outlet lined up exactly how you need it to meet your piping. Then tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern, torquing them down properly.

Downpipe

This took me a while... owning a chop saw would have made things a lot faster.

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Here is my donor pipe, a Spoolin Performance 2.5" that was from my previously planned setup with the HF manifold.

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And here it is installed.

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Note the radiator had to be modified and I installed a push fan on the front side of the radiator for additional clearance. The o2 sensor would have been in the way of the stock fan.


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Here is where it leaves off and what I need to make it do.
The downpipe gets very hot and expands/contracts. The braided flex pipe section I am adding will help compensate for the expansion when the pipe gets hot.

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Here's after a lot of cutting & welding.

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Install the downpipe again and again...

After I had it all painted, I went back and modified it one more time so it did not hang as low.

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When you're sure you won't have to take it off again, some high temp gasket will seal it nicely to the housing.


Slim Fan

This is more of a space issue than a cooling upgrade.

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This was needed because of my downpipe. I used a push fan which will push air through the radiator. Not as efficient as a pull fan, but it fit.

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I have monitored my temperatures since and the slim fan does the job.


Blow Off Valve

Your turbo is spooling away and your engine is being force fed a lot of air... Now when you shift gears, where does that air go for the half second your foot leaves the gas and the throttle body closes?
The blow off valve prevents the air from being forced back into the compressor side of the turbo, also known as Compressor Surge. This can do damage to the unit. So instead the blow off valve (BOV) is hooked to your intake manifold by a vacuum line. When it senses the change in pressure from the throttle plate closing, the BOV opens and releases the air that would otherwise be forced back into the turbo compressor. It makes a cool sound too.

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Install the gasket into the flange

NEED PIC OF SNAP RING
There is a huge snap ring that is a bitch to install. Don't even attempt until you have a good set of snap ring pliers. It took me a few tries. One time it shot out so fast it hit me and I bled lol.

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Here the section of pipe is installed

NEED PIC OF VAC LINE
Hook up the vacuum line from the BOV to your intake manifold or vacuum manifold.

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Here's a T Splitter used to tap into an existing line instead of buying a vacuum manifold.


Oil Drain line

The turbo has oil coming in and oil leaving. the oil entering is forced in by the engine's oil pump pressure. There is nothing pumping the oil out, just gravity to get the job done. So the drain line must be free flowing.

Tapping oil pan for drain line (weld in fitting):

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Plan the fitting to not interfere with the bolts. It should be toward the top of the pan, but not too close to make a tight fit with the hose fittings installed.

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Drill a hole & clean it.

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Sand off surrounding paint.

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I used a nut & bolt to hold the fitting in place while I welded it on.

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I should have tested the fitting first... I took my time welding it on and have a small leak that I found later on.

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Install oil pan
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Use teflon tape on all threaded fittings to ensure they are leak free
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install the line from turbo to pan. Be sure that oil will be able to flow freely when the car is on the ground. If not, it can back up and be forced out of the turbo's seals, greatly shortening their life span.

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I used a Function7 adapter for the drain line. It adapts to -AN fittings which is a more expensive but nicer setup. There are cheaper barbed adapters which allow you to use a rubber hose and clamps.

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Then you can just weld a tube to your oil pan instead of buying fittings. That setup will be fine for a drain line, although this particular pan could have been welded at a slightly upward angle to help flow.


Oil line for turbo

Use a braided stainless line for the oil to the turbo. It sees high pressure with very hot oil. Many turbos require a restrictor. Research your specific setup.

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I used an oil sandwich plate adaptor to provide up to 4 additional oil ports.
(the other port is for the aftermarket oil pressure gauge sensor - essential when installing a turbo)

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Use the teflon tape on the threads and install in the turbo inlet.

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Be sure to use an oil restrictor if needed for your application.


Intercooler & Piping

There's all kinds of options here... I used an old front mount intercooler that I got a while ago and bought a piping kit off ebay. The ends of the pipe were bead rolles and included silicone couplers & T-Clamps. Regular hose clamps are not strong enough, get T clamps. The rolled ends help stop the clamps from sliding off. Don't skimp here, the first time you're on the dyno, you don't want to have to pull your bumper off to tighten a clamp that blew off.

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Here's the piping kit. It is aluminum which is lighter and easier to cut. However this means I could not weld it with my welder.

First mount the intercooler, be sure it will clear the bumper. I trimmed a lot from the inside of the bumper to make it fit. I also had to cut a little out of the front impact beam. Some remove it completely, but I wanted to leave some safety in case of a crash.

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I mounted the IC in from the top through holes in the front impact beam, and welded on metal brackets to the core support, one on each side, to support the IC from the bottom. The IC must not move.

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You will most likely need to do some cutting to make it fit your application.

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It's a lot like a puzzle... test fit the pieces you have and measure twice before you cut! Too bad after cutting I lost some of my bead rolled ends... The T clamps have held them together OK though.

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I had a piece of old steel piping that I needed on the drivers side because the radius of the 180° was too small with the aluminum piping.

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I had to special order this 1.75" to 2.5" 90° transition coupler and the tiny 1.75" T-Clamp for the compressor outlet.
Looking back, I should have got a 2" T-clamp considering that it was for the outer diameter of the 1.75" coupler. I barely got the 1.75" T-clamp to fit.

Be sure to clean out all the dirt & metal shavings from your piping!

Air Filter

As the saying goes... you get what you pay for. Air filters are the same. Don't trust an ebay k&n knockoff, I have seen people's turbos get destroyed from sucking the filter into itself and into the compressor.

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This T3 uses a velocity stack to bolt to the housing and allow a 3" filter.

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I tried a foam filter because of the tight space.
It was a tight fit and that filter ended up being too restrictive for this setup.


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I took exact measurements and finally found a K&N filter that would work. They have a big catalog with all kinds of sizes & types. The chrome top K&N's are stronger and less likely to be sucked in to the turbo.


Internal Wastegate

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Now I'm going to install the internal wastegate. It bolts to the compressor housing, so loosen all the bolts in a criss cross pattern. I removed one of the 3 brackets that holds the housing to the center section. The wastegate bracket replaces that bracket.

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Connect the actuator arm to the pin on the 5 bolt housing. Now the arm and wastegate are connected to the wastegate flap on the hot side of the turbo.


Boost Controller

A boost controller allows you to add additional psi and also can reduce choppy or irregular boost. There's manual and electronic types. There's also single and dual. A good manual boost controller starts around $100. Electronic ones get up in the few hundreds.

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I went with a manual boost controller by Hallman.

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Here is the MBC installed. The side nipple has a line gong to the wastegate. The bottom nipple has a line going to the compressor housing (pic below before I put it on)
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The boost controller just tricks the wastegate by making it see less boost. The more you close the MBC, the more boost you will see.



Catch Can

A catch can is more essential to a turbo car than a NA car.
You are forcing high pressure air where the factory engineers designed there to be a vacuum. Your oem crankcase ventilation system needs to be upgraded as well. The positive pressure in the crank case needs to escape. There's threads on different catch can setups so I'm going to keep this simple. One line goes to the valve cover, the other to the black crank case box on the back of the block. The top of the can is vented, or can be routed back into the system before the turbo inlet on the intake pipe (I don't have one).

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Fuel Pump
More air needs more fuel.
Here's a separate DIY to install an aftermarket fuel pump. I used a 255 LPH Walbro for my setup. http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=10841

Fuel Injectors

I used the common Blue Top DSM 450cc's and a resistor box. They already fit the OBD1 harness.

Relieve the fuel pressure and have some rags handy.

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Remove the rail

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Modify the donut gaskets to fit

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If you are using DSM 450cc's - also remember to install a Resistor Box.
Here's a way to install one without cutting any of your factory wires: http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=10140

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They were a tight fit, a little lube was needed to squeeze the tips in the rail.

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I ended up lightly sanding the gasket to reduce the outer diameter to make them fit in the rail.

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Note that i have a fuel pressure and fuel gauge installed - very helpful when tuning.

Boost Gauge

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This gauge is essential for monitoring boost and noticing any loss of boost or spikes. Use the directions that come with your gauge.

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I got a plastic T splitter to tap into a vacuum line and modified it to accept the small hard plastic line that the boost gauge uses. First I cut a slit on each side to allow it to clamp down onto the plastic line.

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Then I found a nut that would thread onto the tip of the T splitter tightly, clamping down onto the plastic line.

I also have an oil pressure gauge installed as mentioned earlier. This is essential. Another very useful but expensive gauge is a wideband Air Fuel ratio. I have a Pyrometer as the third gauge which reads exhaust temperature.

NEED PIC OF T SPLITTER INSTALLED

Map Sensor

The stock map sensor is good up to around 11 psi.

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I upgraded to a Motorolla 2.5 bar map which is reliable up to around 20 psi. It is fragile and should not be mounted in the engine bay. The pins are too small and close for regular connectors, but are perfect for sliding cut ends of wire right over.

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Then I taped them up well so they don't slip off.

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The stock Map harness in unplugged and de-pinned.

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The original MAP was on the throttle body, some are on the firewall. I ran the factory de-pinned wires in through the firewall under the dash.

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Here I mounted the 2.5 bar Map sensor and nave connected the wires to the ones I put onto he new map sensor. The ones on the map sensor were clipped off a junk harness so that I could connect them to the original MAP wires without cutting them.

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Then I put heat shrink over them.

The nipple on the 2.5 bar is pretty small. The vac line I had was small and fit snug, but did not fit tight enough. I heard a tiny hiss when the car was running. When I pinched the vac line tightly on the nipple, it stopped. I put a tiny zip tie around the end of the hose on the nipple and that cured it.

Fuel management & tuning
There's 2 routes you can go... FMU (Fuel Management Unit) or chipped ECU.
FMU is old school technology. It increases fuel pressure in proportion to boost pressure. It is mechanical and not tied into your ecu or sensors.

A chipped ECU requires more time to install (soldering) and time to tune on a dyno which can get expensive. But a chipped ECU leaves your ecu in control of the fuel like it is intended to do. A chipped ecu that is properly tuned will be able to compensate for a wider range of conditions and optimize the fuel input correctly.
There's all kinds of different tuning software. AEM, Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, Crome and more. The ones I mentioned first are more expensive. Crome basic is free, there is an upgradable Crome pro that can be purchased.
You get what you pay for when it comes to this software. Spending more on the software can also save you time/money at the dyno. For example I had 2 ecu's. One shipped with Crome and the other Hondata S300. The S300 sells for $599 but is much easier to tune and is much more reliable than Crome. The tuner told me I saved dyno time by using the S300.
The ECU controls every aspect of your engine. Think how much you just invested into your engine & turbo setup... Do you really feel right controlling it all with free tuning software?

Never drive the car hard until it has been tuned properly. Remove the plug wires & unplug injectors & crank it for a few seconds. repeat a few times. This will build oil pressure to get oil to the turbo. Start it up, let it idle. Check for leaks. Depending on your setup, it may barely run, or die if you don't give it gas. If you are driving to the tuner, be sure to stay in vacuum by watching your RPM's and the boost gauge. It is best to drive it onto a friend's trailer and haul it there.

One more thing... Bring some heat range 7 or 8 NGK plugs, 2 sets. I didn't think about this and the stock plugs were blowing out past 4500 rpm. I have to make a second trip back with the new plugs.
Last edited by teal_dx on Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:13 am, edited 9 times in total.
Sours: http://civic-eg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11082

Ebay turbo civic

turbo kit

well i try those ebay turbo kits on the pass an all im going to say its they are not make for big power and sometimes they blew in no time .but all the stuff you find on ebay are not that bad you can get : turbo manifold,intercooler,piping but i recommend you to get it make for your car at a shop since they never fit perfect (even when they say its for your car) the rest of the stuff like :boost control,boost gauge,bov,wastegate,and the turbo you better of buying brand.NOTE: you will need to build your engine i will recommend rods(like eagle rods),forged pistons(plenty companys out there to choose),new bearingsits a most since you will be right there(i whent with acl race),cams made for turbo not need it right away but will need it to get all the power out your engine,it a most a new oil and water pump,and timing belt oem its good but you can always go with toda or gates,and deffenely a new tensionel,oem valves can hold up but you better off putting new valves and springs you better doit right from the beginning the start all over againg or provably trash your engine and the finally and the must important its the you need to tune your car after your done if you want your engine to survival thats my opinion

 


Sours: https://ek9.org/index.php?threads/turbo-kit.2936/
$800 CIVIC EBAY TURBO KIT BUILD!!

Turbo Kit for Honda Civic & Integra with B16 B18 B20 B-Series Engine

CXRACING Turbo Kit for Honda Civic & Integra with B16, B18, B20, B-Series Engine.

Product Being Sold:
Manifold + Turbo + Intercooler Kit + Wastegate + Downpipe + Oil Feeding line kit + Oil Return Line Kit + Radiator Fan

CXRACING's NEWLY Released Turbo kit, Fully Tested.

This turbo spools very fast and picks up power very Quick, Good for 300~350 HP.

Product Info and Spec:
Manifold:
- 35mm or 38mm Wastegate
- High Quality CNC Cut Flange
- 304 Stainless Steel
- High Quality TIG Welding Process Made

DownPipe:
- 2.5" Stainless Steel Turbo Down Pipe
- 5 Bolts Exhaust Flange

T04E Turbo and Wastegate:
- T3 Flange to Manifold
- 5 Bolt Hot Side Downpipe Flange
- .50 A/R Compressor
- .63 A/R Turbine
- 3" Inlet & 2" Outlet
- 1/8 NPT Oil Inlet
- 38mm 8 psi Wastegate

Intercooler Kit:
- Bar & Plate Aluminum Intercooler
- Core Size: 22"x7"x2.5"
- Overall Size 28"x7"x2.5"
- 2.5" Inlet & Outlet
- 2.5" Thickness Core
- 2.5" Polished Aluminum Piping with Silicon Hoses , Clamps and BOV

Radiator Fan:
- Size: 12"
- Thickness (Motor Height): 2.5"
- Air Flow Rate: >1130 CBM/Hr
- Speed: 2100 RPM
- Power: 12VDC, 40W

Notes:
- This kit is for Off Road Use only.
- Due to Large HP of this Turbo, Engine and Clutch are highly recommended to be upgraded to handle the increased HP.
- Tuning the Engine Management and Fuel System are required.

Click Below Picture to See Flowbench Test of the Intercooler:

Highlights:
- Newly Developed and New Design, Bolts on fitment to B16, B18 and B20.
- Comes with Oil Return line and Oil feeding line. Easy installed.

Items_Included:
- Front Mount Intercooler
- Cast Exhaust Manifold
- T3 T04E Turbo Charger
- Oil Feeding line kit
- Oil Return line kit
- 2.5" Turbo Downpipe
- Blow Off Valve
- 38mm Wastegate (8PSI)
- Boost Controller
- 2.5" Aluminum Piping Kit
- Silicon Couplers and Clamps
- Radiator Fan

Below Are Installation Pictures:





Sours: https://www.cxracing.com/

Similar news:

Civic: $500 Ebay Turbo Kit Installation

there's a $98 ship to my front door now it didn't have all of this stuff in the description that's in the pictures but everything does come with it it came with the oil lines the gaskets timers flanges manifold

turbo

here's the

turbo

not exactly sure what size it is but I'll check and I'll let you guys know down Peiping intercooler piping so yeah this is all it and it's gonna go on it says it's capable of 450 horsepower but we're not gonna the car is not gonna

civic 500 ebay turbo kit installation

be anything close to that right now we're probably only boots like eight pounds so yeah guys but I'm super excited I got the

turbo

kit in if you guys want to see this build subscribe if you haven't already and it's it's it's gonna be fun it's gonna be fun just having a

turbo

kit in the car it's gonna be really fun so yeah 500 bucks on eBay not sure how it holds up before everyone says oh you know it's such a cheap kit there's $500 we're gonna try it

out yeah alright guys so we'll get it ready to install the

turbo

kit the first piece that's gonna go on is the

turbo

manifold and yeah it's pretty simple what we're doing here I already got the factory I already got the factory metal gasket on there I'm just gonna reuse that instead of the cheap one that comes with the kit and this is gonna be simple it's gonna be installing it the same exact way you would take off your headers and put your headers on so yeah first

part of the kit right here let's get this on and we'll be good to go alright guys so basically right now we are just loosening these bolts that way I can clock the

turbo

miniature now when we got the

turbo

it was like this this is the train line so basically we just got to turn it 180 degrees so right there and then tighten it back up tighten it back up to wherever to wherever it's gonna fit the car we're gonna we're gonna just tighten one of them right now so we can adjust

it later this is the feed line that's the return line the return line needs to be on the bottom and then we're gonna have to loosen this up as well to clock it and drop it down there for when we get it on the car but all you do to loosen these and tighten them up it's just tighten these bolts right here and these are loosen these and loosen these and that's it all right let's look all right guys so he is under the car and we are about ready to get these the gasket and the

turbo

on so he's just gonna push it up into place let's try to set these gaskets up right and I'm just gonna drop these down in there that way you can hold it into place let me get the nuts for them Shawn you got the other one then I push up push it up yeah alright guys so basically here's what we got going on I'm not gonna be able to show you this and it's gonna it's getting kind of dark under the car so here's what I'm gonna do this

civic 500 ebay turbo kit installation

is a sandwich plate and basically I'm gonna use this for my oil supply line so right here these two holes I don't I haven't figured out which way I'm gonna put them yet but I'm gonna stick this most likely this is gonna be in here or there's adapters to make it fit on here but most likely it's gonna be in here this is going to supply the

turbo

with oil and I'm showing you this because it's not gonna fit under the camera is not going to get a good angle under

the car so I'm showing it to you off the car so yeah here's it here it goes so the supply line is going to run from here to the

turbo

and basically what this is going to do where the oil filter was on the back of the block this piece right here is gonna screw in to the back of the block and it's gonna press the way it's setup it's gonna press the sandwich plate onto the back of the block and then also I'm gonna have to do now is screw the oil filter on and then you got a

fresh oil supply line and it's you know basically this is you don't have to remove your oil pressure switch and stuff like that and it's just gonna get right on the back of it it's just gonna sit right on the back of the block where the oil filter was yeah alright guys so we just installed the

turbo

kit we got a little more to do I still I haven't hooked up the boost vacuum lines yet I need to figure out what's going on with instance vacuum port right here is

cramped down so I need to figure out how to open that up now I was going to just splice it into this you know put a T connection but I don't want to run too many things on there I need to hook up the blowout valve to that tool so I still got a lot more stuff to do I need to take this down this is about the ugliest weld I have ever seen but the guy only turns me 20 bucks to do it and I try to go to at least 15 shops and no one could take weld so he did it he said it wasn't gonna be pretty

I would need to sand it down but I needed him to do it so I got it done for 20 bucks I can't complain it is ugly but I will hit it with the grinder and the flap will and bring it down and it'll look a lot better than it does so yeah I gotta hook all that stuff up now I didn't hook it up because the chip is coming in I'm running the p75 it's chipped and it's going to be on Chrome so once the rewritable chip comes in I ordered it from Xena cron the day before yesterday they

civic 500 ebay turbo kit installation

said it will take a couple of days to get here so yeah the car is it's almost there guys so once I once I get the chip in once I get the chip in I also I gotta get the chip in I also got to get the jumper harness for the ECU once all of that comes in I should be able to run this thing I'm gonna run it on eight pounds and hopefully uh yeah hopefully it runs good on a hopefully the

turbo

system works good now let me know let me show you what now the the

turbo

the

turbo

it uh it took about

like ten minutes to get this thing to start turning I don't know if it was the fluid even after I checked the line and made sure fluid was coming out and everything it took about 10 minutes to get it turning so you know it is what it is it got there and I can't even show you it now I can't get down there with the camera but uh yeah so everything's hooked up the drain line is hooked up everything this I try to tuck these the intercooler piping in as close as possible we made some

makeshift brackets from Home Depot those were five dollars and yeah it's a it's all in as of right now with everything going on I got you know only five hundred dollars into the

turbo

kit twenty dollars for that the ECU cost $60 ECU cost $60 and the sandwich plate cost $20 the chip the chip was about the chip was $30 so yeah I got a little bit a little bit over $600 into the

turbo

system and yeah hopefully it sounds good hopefully hopefully it runs good it I mean just sitting there it

runs good but I haven't been able to put it in a booth yet because there's still a lot more other things that I got it once that chip comes in I'll be good with that now I have to change the injectors I gotta put a fuel pressure regulator on and a fuel pump so all of that stuff will be coming soon and the good thing is I got everything to get it going to where it needs to go and you know I got everything to get it going to where it needs to be as far as running right with the chip

and everything and it's gonna be a base map chip it's gonna be something simple just to drive it around a little bit here and there but just to make sure the whole systems working right and everything's working right and then I need to take it to the dyno to get tuned so there's still a lot more that I got to do but though the entire kit is on the hard is done and wasn't really hard it was actually pretty easy to do this you guys can do this yourself and about a day or two

you know it doesn't take long and it's pretty simple so yeah but that's it guys five hundred dollar

turbo

kit install picked it up on eBay if you've been watching the channel I made a couple of I made a video of the unboxing if you want to know everything that was a was involved everything that was in the

turbo

kit check that video out because I explain everything that was in it so yeah that's it guys but the $500 eBay

turbo

kit uh super excited we're gonna be running

booth soon and yeah but that's it guys thanks for watching if you haven't yet follow me on instagram at 79 productions on instagram you will get updates a lot sooner than youtube so follow me on instagram and then yeah that's it guys but like comment subscribe I'll catch you guys on the next one god bless you guys

Source : 79th Productions





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