Miniature Scales: The Complete Guide
Miniature models come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Navigating the hobby’s terminology as a first-time buyer can be confusing, but luckily many miniatures follow scales.
If you’re trying to find a gift for a friend who is into miniature collecting or are looking for one for yourself, here are a few things to know about miniature scales.
What are miniature scales? Miniature scales are used to describe the sizing of miniatures made for different purposes. They fall into two categories: relative scales and absolute scales. Popular games such as Dungeons and Dragons (DnD) and Warhammer use miniatures that have their own scale.
Miniature scales fall into quite a few more categories than just relative and absolute scale, though.
A large variety of hobbies use them, and the size of miniatures will change heavily depending on what the intended use is.
All About Miniature Scales
There is an abundance of miniature scales for the large variety of hobbies that utilize them.
In general, games with a lot of minis on the table will use smaller miniatures while games with less minis tend toward a larger size.
For figuring out which scale best suits your hobby needs, it’s helpful to learn in which type of scale the leading manufacturer produced the miniature.
In general, it is essential to remember that all figure scales are based on the average human figure.
While vehicles or mounts may play a critical role in a specific hobby, manufacturers tend to stretch those proportions separately.
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Miniatures crafted using a relative scale are highly prevalent, especially in historical miniatures or other hobbies where accuracy is an important aspect.
Miniatures at a relative scale compare the size of the miniature to the size of a real-life object.
For instance, a mini may be listed as 1/35, meaning that the mini is 1/35th the size of the actual, real-life object.
You should know that relative scales are not very common among games that use miniatures due to the large discrepancies that could happen between two units or characters that do much of the same thing.
A unit on a horse compared to a unit standing on its feet is going to look very different using a relative scale but could be very similarly sized using others.
Examples of hobbies where relative scale is most common include war reenactment scenes, railroad or locomotive scenes, and expansive town setups.
Absolute scale miniatures are much more common for games and are measured in millimeters.
Here, the method differs slightly from the relative scale. A typical size is chosen, and then other miniatures are made to match that height.
For instance, the size chosen could be 25 mm. This means that each miniature should be that height.
Of course, there is a necessary variation in these scales as well. In a fantasy game, a dwarf miniature will still be shorter than that of a dragon.
The important thing in an absolute scale is that the average miniature size is the same across all of them.
This can create a much more unified look across a table, allowing gameplay to flow more easily using these scales.
Whether your human miniature is dressed in bulky plate armor or simply in normal clothes, they will be the same size.
Games that use absolute scales are much more focused on how the pieces interact with the game board rather than each other, at least in terms of size.
To this end, the base of miniatures (what they stand upon while in use) is generally uniform while there is more variation in the sculpted miniature itself.
When looking at the dozens and dozens of different scales that exist, it can be overwhelming and difficult to understand the differences.
Luckily, with a quick explanation of the differences and the use of a ruler, people can get a grasp on reading scales quickly.
Scales are listed either as fractions or in millimeters.
Often, these have a theoretical equivalent in the other form, but it is best to just use what’s given most of the time.
Scales listed as fractions tend to be on a relative scale, while scales listed in millimeters tend to be on an absolute scale.
Fractional scales work as normal fractions do.
If a miniature is listed as being a 1/600, it simply means that the miniature is made to be 1/600th the size of whatever it represents.
Metric scales are more unified and are simple to measure. The size listed, for instance, 28 mm, simply means that this is the size of the miniature from the base to the reference point, which I’ll explain shortly.
Here are a few common sizes for some of the more popular hobbies that use miniatures:
- 1/600 – Naval miniatures.
- 1/285 – Modern combat miniatures (WWI & Onward).
- 1/220 – Modern railroad miniatures.
- 25mm – Fantasy wargames and Dungeons and Dragons.
- 28mm – Heroic scale gaming miniatures.
Misconceptions About Size
While an important part of understanding the sizing of miniatures is the scale, there are quite a few more variables that contribute to how a model looks.
Miniature models, especially those measured in absolute scales, are often measured using a reference point.
The topic of where the correct reference point should be, however, is often heavily debated.
There are three common reference points for measuring the size of a miniature:
- To the top of the figure.
- To the top of the head.
- To eye level.
These various reference points stem from the different sculptors and manufacturers making minis, as there is not currently a universal system for measurement.
Top of the Figure
Measuring to the top of the figure is valuable for understanding total height but can often create problematic situations, such as when tall headwear, like a plumed hat, dramatically affects the perception when placed near other models.
Top of the Head
Measuring to the top of the head is very common and completely negates the issue of headwear.
However, finding the top of the head on a figure that is wearing complicated headwear can be a challenge, resulting in inaccurate measurements.
Finally, measuring to eye level is recommended occasionally because the eyes of a miniature are almost always visible.
However, this can present issues with measuring non-humanoid figurines, as a main measurement reference simply does not exist.
What Scale Are DnD Models?
Miniature models for Dungeons and Dragons, or DnD, are produced roughly at a 25 mm scale, although many in the community agree that the sizing seems to change dramatically at times.
Due to the subtle changes in miniatures, mostly due to proportions, the community defines the average size by the base on miniatures instead.
The most important part of DnD models is the base, which should be 1 inch wide.
There are exceptions to this as well, depending on the size of the creature in-game and other factors.
In case you’re wondering, one of my favorite figure packs for DnD is this 56 figure set with 28 characters. The characters are already painted and ready for immediate gameplay.
Average DnD Model Size
The 1-inch base size for DnD models is made to represent the average humanoid. This includes humans, elves, orcs, tieflings, and other creatures of that nature.
The game has variation in the 25 mm scale, mostly due to the varying sizes within these bounds.
Elves are generally regarded as taller and thinner than humans, while orcs are meant to be much bulkier in the game.
As such, the proportions of the miniatures changes dramatically for storytelling purposes and warps the perception of scale for many of the models.
This is acceptable because DnD is not a realistic game, and the miniatures are created on an absolute scale so that the average minis are all roughly the same size.
Different Sizes in Game
Various monsters, people, and creatures in the game of Dungeons and Dragons have different sizes.
A miniature of an enormous dragon should be quite a bit larger than a miniature of the human hero standing next to it.
Dungeons and Dragons represents the difference of size between these models through in-game classifications such as tiny, small, medium, large, huge, and gargantuan.
The miniature models used in-game follow a very similar classification method.
The miniature scale of Dungeons and Dragons assumes that humans are medium-sized creatures, and thus occupy the 1-inch wide base.
Smaller models have bases that are either ¼ inch for tiny creatures, or ½ inch for small creatures. The math works the same across all sizes of DnD minis.
Here are the sizes of Dungeons and Dragons miniatures and their equivalent bases:
- Tiny – ¼ inch.
- Small – ½ inch.
- Medium – 1 inch.
- Large – 2 inch.
- Huge – 3 inch.
- Gargantuan – 4 inch.
For more information on Dungeon and Dragons scale, be sure to read my in-depth article on D&D miniatures.
What Scale Are Warhammer Models?
The scale and size of Warhammer models have changed over the years of the game.
Older Warhammer models were created at a 28 mm scale, and new ones tend to be around 32 mm.
However, there is more nuance to these models as well.
Warhammer miniatures are produced with heroic proportions, making heads, weapons, and several other features larger.
These parts affected by the heroic proportions are not to scale with the rest of the body and create a unique look.
Due to the skewed model sizes, incorporating humanoid Warhammer models with other models to create a full board can be a complicated issue.
In addition, there are two types of Warhammer models, which tend to have slightly different proportions and sizes.
Warhammer 40k Models
Warhammer 40k is the most popular version of Warhammer and is what most people think of when the massively popular game runs through their heads.
The miniature models for Warhammer 40k have the heroic proportions that all Warhammer models do.
Warhammer 40k models incorporate a wide range of looks.
Oftentimes, a model of a heavily armored space marine winds up near the small frame of a fast-moving elf.
Due to the scale that Warhammer uses, these models will still share roughly the same height and even width, despite the clear differences.
Because of the heavy armor most units wear in Warhammer 40k, they tend to be even bulkier and bigger than other models.
Read this for everything you need to know to get started playing Warhammer 40k. For a great starter pack, I’d recommend the Ork Boyz pack by Games Workshop.
Warhammer Age of Sigmar Models
Warhammer Age of Sigmar is the fantasy side of the Warhammer coin. These models are roughly the same size as the 40k models with a few minor differences.
The height of many Age of Sigmar models will change dramatically depending on armor, weaponry, helmets, and the size of the base used on the model.
Warhammer Age of Sigmar also tends to use significantly fewer vehicles than the 40k models, so there is less to worry about when matching models to one another.
Essentially any miniature, humanoid or not, printed roughly to the 28 mm scale will fit wonderfully.
Matching Humanoids With Other Warhammer Models
Many Warhammer games use vehicles and cover systems to great effect.
Scaling buildings, rubble, vehicles, and various miscellaneous parts to the size of the humanoids can be a major issue.
Due to the heroic scaling on Warhammer miniatures, it is best to get miniature terrain that is slightly larger than normal.
Despite being technically incorrect for proper scaling, oversized terrain creates a look that is more natural and believable during play.
This is especially relevant to vehicles, as having an enormous space marine dwarf a large van seems entirely inaccurate to many players.
The topic of what scale most Warhammer vehicles are made is often debated in the community.
Truthfully, it seems that the makers of Warhammer themselves often warp and skew various vehicles for a variety of reasons.
With that said, the most common size seems to be a 1/48 scale for vehicles. This is recommended by many veterans in the community as looking the best near the enormous Warhammer models.
Miniatures can look wildly different from each other even if they are made from the same scale. This is due largely to the manufacturer’s decisions for style, accessory, and proportion.
Depending on what the mini may be used for, the proportions are often adapted to make the miniature look more heroic, childlike, or realistic.
This can often cause issues even within the same scale, as pairing a human meant to look heroic near one meant to look realistic will make one appear significantly larger than the other.
It is important to figure out what kind of proportions existing models have and match them to new ones.
Realistically proportioned miniatures are meant to look as close to real life as possible.
Proportions mirror average human sizing, meaning the head of a miniature is about 1/7th the size of the whole model. The eye line will be squarely in the middle of the head.
In addition to this, the width of the model will stick to the proper human scale as well.
This means that legs will not be much thicker, muscles will be anatomically correct, and body proportion will be average.
This style is most often used for historical miniatures and railroad scenes but rarely for games.
Heroically proportioned miniatures are commonly used for wargames, fantasy, and science-fantasy models.
With these, body parts are exaggerated and pronounced to fit the more classic look of an action hero.
Muscles are larger, the torso is more pronounced, and legs are wider. Weapons also have a tendency to be larger, in addition to all other accessories.
The largest mark of miniatures with heroic proportions is the width of the model.
Increasing the width of the miniature while leaving the height alone warps the scale and makes models seem larger than they actually are.
Models scaled this way are easier to paint and customize, lending themselves to hobbyists who enjoy that part of the process more.
Due to the increased width, sometimes as much as 50% over realistic proportions, it can be difficult to switch between heroic proportions and other miniatures without feeling like detail is lost.
A rarer style of a miniature is the chibi proportion style, where the head is far and away the most pronounced part of the model.
The size of the rest of the body could vary between all other proportion types.
Chibi proportions make miniatures appear childlike, and are rarely used in wargames or historical scenes.
Rather, chibi proportions fit wonderfully with painters who want to practice faces or hobbyists who enjoy the more pronounced head.
A sort of variation on the heroic scale proportion, top-down proportions place a heavy focus on the upper torso so that miniatures look larger than they are.
Top-heavy miniatures can look almost ridiculous when viewed at table level, as the legs look incredibly tiny for the body.
However, this style takes advantage of the fact that most miniatures are viewed from above during play.
From the high vantage point, these miniatures achieve the look of massive, heroic characters without physically taking up too much more space.
Top-down style miniatures will often be used in board games as they are easier to pick up and tend to stand out from the rest of the board.
How to Measure Miniature Vehicles
Finding miniature models of vehicles for humanoid models to interact with can be tricky.
The issues that surround sizing largely revolve around the warped proportions that many miniatures have.
In addition, various popular games warp their vehicle sizing and make it difficult to find others that work.
Here are some measurement guidelines for finding vehicles for your miniature games and scenes.
Finding the Right Size For Miniature Vehicles
Oftentimes, when trying to find vehicles for wargames or popular games such as Dungeons and Dragons or Warhammer, the manufacturer has vehicles available.
While the scale of these vehicles may change sometimes, they are generally the best bet for matching sizing.
In the case where there are no vehicles created already, it is best to look toward other methods or third-party manufacturers for getting vehicles.
For example, EnderToys makes a nice 28 mm Broken Vehicle Bundle.
The various proportions available for miniatures will have a significant impact on which vehicles look the best.
- Realistically proportioned miniatures are easiest. Whatever scale the miniature human uses is going to be the exact scale for any vehicles the scene needs as well.
- Heroically proportioned miniatures are complicated but generally will require larger vehicles than the scale would suggest.
- Chibi and top-down proportioned miniatures are the most difficult for which to find vehicles. Because these miniatures are so warped, it’s often necessary to buy from the same manufacturer to get accurate sizing.
Considering that the vehicle models must be compared to the miniature figure, there are two important aspects for finding the correct size.
- How does the figure look standing near the vehicle?
- How would the figure look sitting inside the vehicle?
When coming up with a scale for vehicles to people, it is best to decide on a common unit of measurement. Essentially, this creates an absolute scale for the board.
For instance, if the average humanoid miniature is decided to be roughly 6 feet tall, then the average sedan should be around shoulder height.
Finding Scale For 28 mm Figures
The most common scale for humanoid figures, where scale is an important calculation, is the 28 mm scale.
This covers most miniatures used in wargames or fantasy tabletop situations.
A basic assumption about the scale representing a human at about 6 feet tall can be made, so conversions are easier.
Ignoring heroic proportions for a moment, a scale of 1/64 would mean that everything would be correct. However, as was mentioned briefly before, proportions ruin this conversion.
Due to the increased bulk of miniature models, most vehicles properly scaled look ridiculously small in comparison.
The solution here is to go larger on the vehicle size.
Scaling at this point is generally a personal preference, but two sizes that seem to work well for miniatures of 28 mm are a 1/43 scale and a 1/48 scale.
These allow figurines to look as if they can see over cars while still providing cover and enough space for details.
Scales For Miniature Terrain
Figuring out the scale for terrain and buildings around miniatures can be a hassle in and of itself.
This is because the scale of miniatures and the scale of the terrain are often different, especially in wargames.
Oftentimes, particularly when playing through massive battles, it is simply impossible to have the terrain on the table be on the same scale as the miniatures.
Reenacting a modern combat scene, for instance, where guns have a range of over 100 yards, is instant proof that managing a table that large is not an option.
To fix this, the terrain scale is often compressed. The larger the scale of battles taking place on the table, the more compression needs to happen.
The compression of terrain and buildings can be broken down into four major categories.
- Terrain as area.
- Terrain as obstacles.
- Terrain as cubes.
- Terrain as intended.
Terrain as Area
Using terrain and buildings to represent whole areas is common in extremely large scale games. This is best in games where individual miniatures represent groups in play.
With this compression, buildings, rubble, trees, and other terrain represent an abstract area. For example, one city building on the map may represent a large area, such as a city block.
For the use of terrain like this, the scale of buildings can be very close to the miniature scale, and very little extra work is required.
Terrain as Obstacles
Using this terrain scale, buildings are used to provide cover and make gameplay more interesting but are not able to be entered.
This method works well for games where miniatures have long ranges and do not need the ability to enter into buildings for small skirmishes.
This is a great, cheap alternative as almost anything can be placed on the table to represent buildings or forests.
Terrain as Cubes
This terrain scale is smaller still and allows for troops to hide inside of buildings or dense forests.
Exact positioning inside of the building does not matter at all, and very often, terrain built for this scale will be barren inside.
The representation here is still abstract, although much closer to reality than the previous two scales.
Terrain built for this purpose will need to either be roofless or modular so that troops inside of the buildings can be seen.
Terrain as Intended
This is the smallest scale for terrain and extremely common in games such as Dungeons and Dragons. Buildings, trees, rocky cliff faces – all are treated exactly as they look.
This is a great method for small battles, where units represent exactly what they look like.
These models will have interior detail such as separate rooms, floors, or even furniture that miniatures can take cover behind.
These can be troublesome to make due to the detail required but serve best when working at figure scale.
Miniature Scales For Fun
Miniature models serve such a wide variety of purposes and games that there are now dozens of different, popular scales.
In cases where realism is most important, it is best to find a scale and stick to it across all of the models, whether humanoid, vehicles, or terrain.
Often, miniatures are used to simulate battles for a variety of roleplaying and board games. In situations such as these, the scale matters significantly less.
While there is an enormous amount of discussion out there and resources to look into, it’s best to remember that miniatures are there to serve the game.
If something looks good to you and other players, then it’s good enough!
Unboxing, Table Sizes, and Artwork from Warhammer 40,000 9th Edition
It’s the perfect time to be a Warhammer 40,000 fan, as new releases and information seem to be cropping up everywhere. Of course, we have the 9th Edition coming soon, but that’s not all.
Firstly, Games Workshop has confirmed it will be releasing information as to what will be in the Starter Box for Warhammer 40,000 this weekend. It’s toted to be the biggest and most impressive Warhammer 40,000 box ever. It’ll officially reveal the latest of Primaris Lieutenants, and some Necrons too.
This does raise the question, as many of you did when the news of it was released, as to the price point – bigger and better does often mean we’ll be looking at more and more expensive. Hopefully, this weekend we’ll find out why it’ll be worth it!
In addition, we now know that the table sizes for Warhammer 40,000 will be changing. There’s four recommended sizes of battle Combat Patrol, Incursion, Strike Force and Onslaught, which tell you how many detachments (one to four in the order listed), the battle size (one to four hours in the order listed), and the minimum battlefield size. For Combat Patrol and Incursion, that’s 44” x 30”, for Strike Fore it’s 44” x 60”, and for Onslaught it’s 44” x 90”. It comments that most dining room tables should accommodate Strike Force, a measurement of value that really should be included in dining room table sales adverts.
Not only that, but there’s also been some amazing new artwork shown, which are for the new rulebook. There are scenes from across the Imperium, but also “an abundance of glorious, grim, dark art” to come within the rulebook.
And of course, we talked about the exciting new book series coming soon.
All in all, there’s a lot to see for Warhammer fans, and we’re excited to see what happens this weekend!
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FLG, the ITC and the New 40k Play Surface Size
Alright, the cat is finally out of the bag on the table size thing so we can actually speak somewhat freely about it.
Today GW announced that the new standard minimum size for a 2,000pt game was going to be 44×60″. We wanted to share some insights about this and where we stand on the topic.
First: do you have to switch your table size? No. As they say in the article, it’s not required if you want to stick to a 4×6′ although it is good to know that 9th was designed to be played on a smaller surface and the missions as many of you have seen were designed with that in mind. They still function on a 6×4′ for sure, but I wanted to put that out there. Will the ITC require this change? No. Use what you have.
Second: why did GW do this? The answer as it has been related to us and as as it was outlined in the article is incredibly simple : it allows new players to build a table using Kill Team boards that easily fit into boxes. That’s it. No conspiracy, a simple choice based on what they felt was best for accessibility to the game from a business perspective. It’s also been related to us that this size fits particularly well on many common kitchen tables such as those you can purchase at Ikea to make it easier for new players or players with no access to a club or FLGS to play at home.
Third: did we at Frontline have any input on this choice? No. We have absolutely zero influence on or usually even knowledge of product development choices GW makes. We only give feedback on rules in our role as playtesters. We were pretty surprised when we learned about this ourselves.
Fourth: will we be running our events on these new sized surfaces? Yes we will. Also, other events such as NOVA, Adepticon, the LGT, Battle for Salvation, and many more are making the switch as well. Just ask your local community organizer in advance what to expect to avoid any dissapointment.
Fith: My thoughts: once I got over my shock and initial aversion to the idea, and I saw that it was much better for the long term logistics of event organization, I started to come around on it. You can fit a lot more people in the same space for a Game Store or organized play event which helps them to succeed, you need less terrain to get started and over time, it will make it a lot easier to get involved as a community organizer as the barrier to entry has been lowered. A smaller game really is a better game, it’s just jarring now to people like all of us that have made investments in terrain and mats/play surfaces assuming that that wasn’t going to change.
Sixth: Do you have to buy new gaming surfaces? No, you can continue to use what you have, you can cut your existing mats down if you feel comfortable doing that, you can use painters tape to mark the smaller area, you can mark on them with a pen if that suits you, or any number of ways to use what you have without having to shell out any more money. We will have the new sized mats available soon, but it is not a requirement to purchase them if you do not want to, of course.
Hopefully in time, after the dust settles, you all can see the very real long term benefits to this change. And again, if you want to continue to play on a 4×6? Go for it! The world is your oyster.
And remember, Frontline Gaming sells gaming products at a discount, every day in their webcart!
Posted on June 5, 2020byReeciusin40K, News
Tags: 40KitcnewsSours: https://www.frontlinegaming.org/2020/06/05/flg-the-itc-and-the-new-40k-play-surface-size/
Warhammer 40000 : 8th vs 9th board size comparison
Hello everyone !!
There is a lot of talk on the new terrain size, so let's take a few minutes to clear things up :
Board sizes are changing OMG
The 40k table sizes are changing. Each points level has its own table size for best playability.
Don't freak out, the sizes are "minimum". But to be honest all the 9th missions are balanced with the new size in mind. Especially for the reinforcement coming from side and the numbers of terrains you have to use.
Things to consider :
A) All the major events are making the switch to the new format.
B) Playing on a smaller surface with closer sideboard is a lot better. I prefer a smaller board because it makes each spot more relevant. Trust me once you start playing wargame on smaller surface the 4"/6" is boring.
C) As shown on the "Paint" image I made ^^. Even if you have an old 6*4 Board you can easily mark the side you are not using and use the lost space (12") to stock: models, reinforcements, rules, dice, drinks...Anyway, we are all doing this already so it's not that important.^^
D) The height reduction is only 4''. each player can easily ignore 2" from their own table edge.
E) The game is a lot more scalable by using Kill-team board increment.
As you can see on the image, combat patrol/incursion are 2 kills team board (up to 1k). The strike force is 4 (up to 2k) and Onslaught is 6.(up to 3k) edit : thx for the correction!
F) The numbers of 22"*30" boards are going to increase a lot in the coming year and it will allow new players to build there Strike Force battlefield quite easily over time. Also, 2 new players that have a Combat patrol board with the terrains needed. Can pool their stuff and get a strike force board perfectly!
This change is kind of harsh if you have a nice 6*4 hard built and want to try the 60*44.
Still, the benefits, in the long run, are interesting: Less space needed at events, more tactical, easier to scale, to stock...With 2 Kill-team Boards, you can start these 500 and 1000 points games very easily and start playing your new army before having 2k points (things i usually never do !).
Also if you want to keep playing on a 6*4 it's also fine, if you are not very competitive you don't care ... At worst you just have to zone out a part of the board, it's not that big of a deal.
That's it for the Board Change...
Feel free to debate but keep it civil ;)
Size warhammer 40k
Size is an important factor when shooting ranged weapons because it is usually easier to hit a larger target. All characters and creatures in Deathwatch have a defined size category, and it should be relatively easy for the GM to assign appropriate size categories to objects as needed. Use Target Size Modifiers for working out bonuses and penalties based on a target’s size.
Target Size Modifiers
|Minuscule (autoquill, knife)||–30|
|Puny (bolt pistol, servo-skull)||–20|
|Scrawny (Gretchin, Human child)||–10|
|Average (Human, Eldar)||0|
|Hulking (Ork Nob, Armoured Space Marine)||+10|
|Enormous (Sentinel Walker, Krootox)||+20|
|Massive (Battle Tank, Greater Daemon)||+30|
|Immense (Land Raider, Great Knarloc)||+40|
|Monumental (Squiggoth, Baneblade)||+50|
|Titanic (Reaver Battle Titan, Ordinatus War Machine)||+60|
Trait Groups: Miniscule, Puny, Weedy, Hulking, Enormous, Massive
Creatures come in one of seven different size categories, as shown on the following chart. Size affects movement and how easy or hard it is to strike that creature in combat. (When calculating movement, apply the size modifier first, and then other modifiers from other traits or talents.) For the purposes of comparison, a human is an average-sized creature.
|Miniscule||–30||+30||Agility Bonus –3|
|Puny||–20||+20||Agility Bonus –2|
|Scrawny||–10||+10||Agility Bonus –1|
|Hulking||+10||–10||Agility Bonus +1|
|Enormous||+20||–20||Agility Bonus +2|
|Massive||+30||–30||Agility Bonus +3|
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